Rockfax Description
A tough route with a hard but well-protected section. Some of the rock requires careful handling. Start as for Wheels of Fire in the easy-angled corner.
1) 4c, 14m. Move up to a ledge then traverse out right across a slab to a wall that is followed via cracks to a tree belay below the upper corner.
2) 5c, 16m. Climb the corner making hard moves to pass the left side of the overhang. Take care with some of the rock above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The main corner is a fine line but a vicious experience at this grade, the crux being one of the worst moves in Borrowdale! Gain the half-height belay ledge from a 4c pitch up the right of the slab, or scramble in. Climb the corner above to the block roof, then determined slithering around the left end of this may lead to easier climbing and a heather top-out.

Ticklists

Turbo-Punter's Tradification

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User Date Notes
matt10990 21 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Shunted a few times and given a good clean. Worrying flakes above the crux! Rock at the right of the crux block also now a bit loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Shunted a few times and given a good clean. Worrying flakes above the crux! Rock at the right of the crux block also now a bit loose.

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Guidebooks for Bowderstone Crags

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Go Between

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Quayfoot Buttress)

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