Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning jamming-crack gives a short-lived tussle. Good gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Burbage North VS Challenge (Rockfax Eastern Grit) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Burbage Starred VS

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User Date Notes
Jaco1878 7 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Found the crux tricky got my high foot up on first attempt but was to pumped. Got it second try , both partners climbed it differently than me and was able to use a small flake the the left of the crack.
βeta?
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βeta: Found the crux tricky got my high foot up on first attempt but was to pumped. Got it second try , both partners climbed it differently than me and was able to use a small flake the the left of the crack.
roberto18 21 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If you can jam well and you are fairly flexible then its VS 4C, but if you can't jam then this route is nearly impossible. the crux move is well protected so just go for it!.
βeta?
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βeta: If you can jam well and you are fairly flexible then its VS 4C, but if you can't jam then this route is nearly impossible. the crux move is well protected so just go for it!.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: aaaaarghh*!:#? My fists are still sore & it was years ago!
βeta?
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βeta: aaaaarghh*!:#? My fists are still sore & it was years ago!
Si dH 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure this is worth 5a? Bit awkward but perfectly fair VS 4c.
βeta?
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βeta: Not sure this is worth 5a? Bit awkward but perfectly fair VS 4c.
Paul Tomo 24 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Just my type of climb, really enjoyed it, one piece of gear under the overhang and go for it.
βeta?
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βeta: Just my type of climb, really enjoyed it, one piece of gear under the overhang and go for it.
Jody 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this thinking it was Lieback, laybacked it and thought it was fairly easy (probably easier for the tall). How does a very well protected route with a 4c crux at 6m get VS while a technical poorly protected (i.e. one ok peanut) route, Spider Crack, with a 5m high 5b crux gets VS also (at 8 and 6 metres respectfully neither are sustained). Been away for a while and I had forgotten about the UK’s grading idiosyncrasies.
βeta?
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βeta: Did this thinking it was Lieback, laybacked it and thought it was fairly easy (probably easier for the tall). How does a very well protected route with a 4c crux at 6m get VS while a technical poorly protected (i.e. one ok peanut) route, Spider Crack, with a 5m high 5b crux gets VS also (at 8 and 6 metres respectfully neither are sustained). Been away for a while and I had forgotten about the UK’s grading idiosyncrasies.
JohnHutch 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If Lieback is VS 4c, then this must be HVS 5b!
βeta?
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βeta: If Lieback is VS 4c, then this must be HVS 5b!
The Mountain Goat 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not that difficult once you find the holds. Good gear, but take care not to block your hand jams. Then put your foot up and go, I wussed out three times before I went for it, only to find it's actually rather nice.
βeta?
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βeta: Not that difficult once you find the holds. Good gear, but take care not to block your hand jams. Then put your foot up and go, I wussed out three times before I went for it, only to find it's actually rather nice.
Northern Mountain Monkey 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The hand jam is bomber. I reckon it could be harder if you are really tall (I am 6'4'') as its awkward getting your right foot up. I did the crux eventually but then took my first leader fall. Good Gear! VS 5a in my book. NMM
βeta?
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βeta: The hand jam is bomber. I reckon it could be harder if you are really tall (I am 6'4'') as its awkward getting your right foot up. I did the crux eventually but then took my first leader fall. Good Gear! VS 5a in my book. NMM
Crammy 2 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Using the left arete makes the crux much easier.
βeta?
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βeta: Using the left arete makes the crux much easier.

Logged Ascents

1125 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 171
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 169
Votes cast 147
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Himmelswillen

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)

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