Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The narrow projecting buttress has a couple of steep and powerful moves over the snout. © Rockfax
FA. Dennis Carr 1977.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Memorable Climbs , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , SUMC's Steep Testpieces , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , Grit solos hvs -e3 , Ones to smash out! , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pythonist | 15 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good mid-grade E2 5b with plenty of good cams in the horizontal breaks - ignore the vertical crackline until you're above it, as fiddling with nuts will just knacker you for the rest of the route! Slotting in a piece at the top from the jug/ledge abvoe it, however, is easy. I also felt it natural to finish on the right arete... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Good mid-grade E2 5b with plenty of good cams in the horizontal breaks - ignore the vertical crackline until you're above it, as fiddling with nuts will just knacker you for the rest of the route! Slotting in a piece at the top from the jug/ledge abvoe it, however, is easy. I also felt it natural to finish on the right arete... |
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| Fiend | 31 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The climbing is fantastic. Both the adjectival and technical crux is fiddling around in that bloody awful mid-height crack. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The climbing is fantastic. Both the adjectival and technical crux is fiddling around in that bloody awful mid-height crack. |
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| Monk | 15 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's not that hard to follow this route! Not many options. Just go straight up the front. There is a good cam available in a break higher up but it is strenuous to place (i used it though as I was scared stupid!) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It's not that hard to follow this route! Not many options. Just go straight up the front. There is a good cam available in a break higher up but it is strenuous to place (i used it though as I was scared stupid!) |
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| jamiemoss | 12 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure exactly where this route goes - does it follow the underside of overhang throughout? I ended up rocking round onto the right hand face and climbing this with my left hand on the arete for the last couple of moves (following obvious, heavily chalked holds). It wasn't easy - 5b with no gear after the crack. Did I go wrong? Was still fantastic quality though. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure exactly where this route goes - does it follow the underside of overhang throughout? I ended up rocking round onto the right hand face and climbing this with my left hand on the arete for the last couple of moves (following obvious, heavily chalked holds). It wasn't easy - 5b with no gear after the crack. Did I go wrong? Was still fantastic quality though. |
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| mark s | 4 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: standard 5b | ||
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Show beta
βeta: standard 5b |
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| Monk | 31 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is lower than I thought and I ended up reversing it twice before committing to the top moves. The crack isn't as easy to get good gear in as it looks and the top break is quite dirty. My first E2 so can't really comment on the grade but really good climbing. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is lower than I thought and I ended up reversing it twice before committing to the top moves. The crack isn't as easy to get good gear in as it looks and the top break is quite dirty. My first E2 so can't really comment on the grade but really good climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage North
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Regent Street
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)