Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Layback the curving black flake and swing around the corner to a ledge. The upper arete is a worrying contrast. The upper arete can be climbed on the left - Kiss Me My Darling, E2 5c. The lower arete can be climbed on the right to give a tough direct start, Too Good to be Forgotten, f6A. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1971.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Cristmas Trad Plan , Eastern Grit E1s , The Eal List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pythonist | 15 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slightly awkward crux getting around the arete, yes, but the nice short intro, and then the excitement of trying not to over-balance on the arete make it all worthwhile. Two ropes might be recommended, as the gear behind the lower flake, and on the arete isn't reassuring, whereas being able to use the gear placements in the bottom of the ledge and out right would be very useful. Hard E1! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Slightly awkward crux getting around the arete, yes, but the nice short intro, and then the excitement of trying not to over-balance on the arete make it all worthwhile. Two ropes might be recommended, as the gear behind the lower flake, and on the arete isn't reassuring, whereas being able to use the gear placements in the bottom of the ledge and out right would be very useful. Hard E1! |
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| Si dH | 12 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fell off this and ended up finishign up the chimney. The crux is very awkward. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fell off this and ended up finishign up the chimney. The crux is very awkward. |
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| Sam Doyle | 3 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route. No other E1 has taken me three attempts. The move off the middle height ledge to gain the arete is brilliant. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route. No other E1 has taken me three attempts. The move off the middle height ledge to gain the arete is brilliant. |
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| tom r | 7 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is a great little route. Top bit is very technical and sparsly protected. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Is a great little route. Top bit is very technical and sparsly protected. |
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| dan_o_b | 5 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: liked it, but then I'm tall so the top bit was ok for me. Bottom bit was very awkward mind. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: liked it, but then I'm tall so the top bit was ok for me. Bottom bit was very awkward mind. |
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| Fiend | 31 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awkward and not particularly enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Awkward and not particularly enjoyable. |
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| Sazzle | 11 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, good mix of brute and technical. Flake is solid at the top, more than enough for a cam. Getting off the ledge really took some thinking about, and several false starts - probably harder for us shorties (as always). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, good mix of brute and technical. Flake is solid at the top, more than enough for a cam. Getting off the ledge really took some thinking about, and several false starts - probably harder for us shorties (as always). |
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| Duz Walker | 24 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: single cam (well behind flake, monkeyed around, hands on shelf, just a mantle and **********, rope wedged, no give, fell whipped around the aret and ran up black slab. That flake is sound and the fall ok. QED. Top part chocka with great useless holds. Fine route nevetheless. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: single cam (well behind flake, monkeyed around, hands on shelf, just a mantle and **********, rope wedged, no give, fell whipped around the aret and ran up black slab. That flake is sound and the fall ok. QED. Top part chocka with great useless holds. Fine route nevetheless. |
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| GrahamD | 25 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is definately on the top wall where the dodgy gear appears to receed rapidly ! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is definately on the top wall where the dodgy gear appears to receed rapidly ! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bits of the flake have snapped off, glad i wasn't leading it. i found it deviously techncial. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bits of the flake have snapped off, glad i wasn't leading it. i found it deviously techncial. |
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| The Pylon King | 15 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: tricky moves off the ledge | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: tricky moves off the ledge |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Millwheel Wall
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)