Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Trend right up the wall then finish direct. A bit reachy in its central section, to a high crux. Escaping right is only worth VS. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Gregory 1964.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chris the Tall | 3 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Right hand wall now appears as Wollock Direct -HVS 5c - but I prefer to regard it as a boulder problem and then sneak off to the crack. There is also a left hand variant to Wollock, trend towards the blunt arete and head for the gap in the capping block. E1 5a/b, gets very slopey at the final break and the top isn't much better | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Right hand wall now appears as Wollock Direct -HVS 5c - but I prefer to regard it as a boulder problem and then sneak off to the crack. There is also a left hand variant to Wollock, trend towards the blunt arete and head for the gap in the capping block. E1 5a/b, gets very slopey at the final break and the top isn't much better |
||||
| Duncan I | 1 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Difficult to grade. 4c is about right. And probably HVS. I put a rope on for the eliminate to the right - what fun! How come it's not route in it's own right? HVS 5b/5c depending on your height and worth a star. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Difficult to grade. 4c is about right. And probably HVS. I put a rope on for the eliminate to the right - what fun! How come it's not route in it's own right? HVS 5b/5c depending on your height and worth a star. |
||||
| Jon Stewart | 30 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: yep, the wall to the right is a cool little route and didn't feel too contrived to warrant a mention...hvs 5c, but only just 5c? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: yep, the wall to the right is a cool little route and didn't feel too contrived to warrant a mention...hvs 5c, but only just 5c? |
||||
| Monk | 16 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wierd one to judge. I thought the protection was adequate - much better than the grade would suggest. I spent too much time faffing with marginal placements (due to the undeserved reputation) only to move up to find good ones so got very pumped. The climbing felt strenuous for 4c but not much harder and certainly felt more HVS than VS. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Wierd one to judge. I thought the protection was adequate - much better than the grade would suggest. I spent too much time faffing with marginal placements (due to the undeserved reputation) only to move up to find good ones so got very pumped. The climbing felt strenuous for 4c but not much harder and certainly felt more HVS than VS. |
||||
| Whealiebob | 5 Nov, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't let the first few easyish (but very nice) moves lull you into a sense of false security... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Don't let the first few easyish (but very nice) moves lull you into a sense of false security... |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Burbage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Brooks' Crack
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage South Edge)