16m.

Rockfax Description
Intimidating climbing up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang, up this with difficulty (good small wire up and left) to reach a ramp. Hand traverse rightwards up this to gain the arete and a sprint finale. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1975.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Big trad grit list , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
north country boy 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking!
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking!
GDes 3 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it
βeta?
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βeta: no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it
Andy Reeve 6 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is!
Andy Reeve 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem.
JR 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scorched Earth

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Oldpits Quarry)

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