500m, 15 pitches. 2b, 3b or 4a (1 p.a. 5b), _, 5a (2 p.a. 6a), 5a+, 4a, 4a, 3b, 4a, 4a, 4a, 4a, 3a, 3a, 4b

F. Delisle, Ch. Rathgeb 1927

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 3 Aug AltLd
Alan Scowcroft 3 Aug AltLd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2018 2nd
runsteepclimbhigh 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
kieranbowen 25 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Incredible route, very glad we did it. Spent 10 hours on the rock because we're very slow and we went off route twice. Bolt spacing was not very civilized (about 10m on easier pitches) although well bolted on the trickier bits of p2&3. I found p4 very brown trousery, the runouts made the climbing feel much harder than it probably was. What I learnt: The guide books differ; try to get hold of pics of more than one; The anchor at the top of pitch 6 is on the left side of the niche. I missed it, don’t head right along the ledge instead…that’s a stupid idea; The top 2/3 pitches where they branch off (3’s on the right, 4 going straight up) weren’t the most obvious. We carried on along the ledge going off piste on pegs to the right. If you see bolts and easy climbing going upwards, go that way; If it’s your first time on a big wall, your top grade isn’t much higher than 6a, and you’re not alternating leads it can take a very long time; I took 3 cams (1,2,3). Barely used the 3, would recommend taking 0.5,1,2
Incredible route, very glad we did it. Spent 10 hours on the rock because we're very slow and we went off route twice. Bolt spacing was not very civilized (about 10m on easier pitches) although well bolted on the trickier bits of p2&3. I found p4 very brown trousery, the runouts made the climbing feel much harder than it probably was. What I learnt: The guide books differ; try to get hold of pics of more than one; The anchor at the top of pitch 6 is on the left side of the niche. I missed it, don’t head right along the ledge instead…that’s a stupid idea; The top 2/3 pitches where they branch off (3’s on the right, 4 going straight up) weren’t the most obvious. We carried on along the ledge going off piste on pegs to the right. If you see bolts and easy climbing going upwards, go that way; If it’s your first time on a big wall, your top grade isn’t much higher than 6a, and you’re not alternating leads it can take a very long time; I took 3 cams (1,2,3). Barely used the 3, would recommend taking 0.5,1,2
Edvar87 23 Jun, 2018 2nd dnf
with alice, Ruth, kieranbowen
with alice, Ruth, kieranbowen
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 31 Jul, 2017 Lead Good route, crux straightforward, following pitch is the testing one until you trust the friction. Threat of rain kept us on our toes but made it up in the dry in just under 4hrs. Our 60m half rope not really an advantage as nearly all pitches 40-45m. 7 QDs is plenty if you're just clipping bolts.
with Karen
Good route, crux straightforward, following pitch is the testing one until you trust the friction. Threat of rain kept us on our toes but made it up in the dry in just under 4hrs. Our 60m half rope not really an advantage as nearly all pitches 40-45m. 7 QDs is plenty if you're just clipping bolts.
with Karen
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 2nd
Toby 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Awesome. Last pitch was fairly terrifying as it was soaking - super easy climbing but very spaced bolts and wet limestone is slippy! Ended up doing a few pitches of Bal des Mutants as we weren't very good at route finding and we had the wall to ourselves.
with Ben
Awesome. Last pitch was fairly terrifying as it was soaking - super easy climbing but very spaced bolts and wet limestone is slippy! Ended up doing a few pitches of Bal des Mutants as we weren't very good at route finding and we had the wall to ourselves.
with Ben
alan.phobos 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route. Not much to add to Dave's excellent summary. Aided the obvious crux 6a(ish) move (just over the top of the steep section at the start of p3) as old piton to stand on is far too tempting. The rest was climbed clean. The route crosses another busy line mid-pitch near the end on easy ground, so watch for that. Best pitch for me was p4 with superb 5a-ish sustained climbing for 20-30m on slim but just sufficient holds. The bar at the bottom has excellent fondue and great views.
Great route. Not much to add to Dave's excellent summary. Aided the obvious crux 6a(ish) move (just over the top of the steep section at the start of p3) as old piton to stand on is far too tempting. The rest was climbed clean. The route crosses another busy line mid-pitch near the end on easy ground, so watch for that. Best pitch for me was p4 with superb 5a-ish sustained climbing for 20-30m on slim but just sufficient holds. The bar at the bottom has excellent fondue and great views.
Daveyc86 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S What a route - my first alpine route of this size and the situation is fantastic. Having done some research in to the route I thought it worth leaving a note for others as there are some big errors in what is reported. 1) The walk down does take about 2 hours - their is a 300m ridge walk across the length of the mirror to escape this takes nerves if you are tired and not roped up! 2) Miss the 2nd and third to last pitches. Go up the 4b from direct! The 3a's are easy if dry, but if it has rained in the last few days the penultimate one is akin to ice skating. Not advised without some trad gear. 3) We did this on bank holiday weekend in august and it was very busy. Even if your route is quiet most routes funnel to the one pitch to finish so can end up queuing - set of early to avoid the crowds. We set off at first light and were still not back at the car for 11 hours due to queuing. We all lead vs / hvs comfortably and it wasnt the climbing that made us slow - it was other climbers. 4) Enjoy the view. 5) Do not take nuts - really not needed. DMM Cams 0 - 4 were very useful to just create a few extra runners however.
What a route - my first alpine route of this size and the situation is fantastic. Having done some research in to the route I thought it worth leaving a note for others as there are some big errors in what is reported. 1) The walk down does take about 2 hours - their is a 300m ridge walk across the length of the mirror to escape this takes nerves if you are tired and not roped up! 2) Miss the 2nd and third to last pitches. Go up the 4b from direct! The 3a's are easy if dry, but if it has rained in the last few days the penultimate one is akin to ice skating. Not advised without some trad gear. 3) We did this on bank holiday weekend in august and it was very busy. Even if your route is quiet most routes funnel to the one pitch to finish so can end up queuing - set of early to avoid the crowds. We set off at first light and were still not back at the car for 11 hours due to queuing. We all lead vs / hvs comfortably and it wasnt the climbing that made us slow - it was other climbers. 4) Enjoy the view. 5) Do not take nuts - really not needed. DMM Cams 0 - 4 were very useful to just create a few extra runners however.
mlcumberlidge 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd Absolutely stunning climbing. My first alpine route. Took a long time to find the way down and descended most of the way in the dark
with Stuart Bracher
Absolutely stunning climbing. My first alpine route. Took a long time to find the way down and descended most of the way in the dark
with Stuart Bracher
cacheson 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Fantastic route, though the Direct is even better
with Tom FP
Fantastic route, though the Direct is even better
with Tom FP
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
guy127917 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
petellis ?Sep, 2015 -
M.Hallen ?Sep, 2015 AltLd G/U One difficult move.
One difficult move.
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 2nd
Rob84 3 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Great route - steady climbing and you can move quickly as long as you're happy with fairly spaced bolts. The descent down the ravine is a total ball ache and longer than you think, but worth it for such an amenable route up a huge and impressive chunk of rock.
with mel_1
Great route - steady climbing and you can move quickly as long as you're happy with fairly spaced bolts. The descent down the ravine is a total ball ache and longer than you think, but worth it for such an amenable route up a huge and impressive chunk of rock.
with mel_1
Hidden 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd
MatthewH 20 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Quite an experience being on a such a vast piece of rock.
Quite an experience being on a such a vast piece of rock.
garethm 1 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 -
Bristol_Quornstar 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Dave Willey, Tal Niv
with Dave Willey, Tal Niv
abbeywall 18 Jul, 2014 AltLd Done in 13 pitches as joined directe 4a, 4c finish and despite doing pitch 1 as two short pitches. Led half of 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 , 8, 10, and 4c pitch as 13th pitch. The aid bit on p3 is not an overhang as I expected. The easy overhang (massive holds and 2 good bolts) leads to a smooth slab where you can pull on the q draw to get your feet across to the next q draw which you can also pull on. Didn't. need to do this but stood on the piton which seemed to be in the way of a foothold you want to use on the slab. P 4 a superb crack line. Spaced bolting apart from the crux at p3
with K
Done in 13 pitches as joined directe 4a, 4c finish and despite doing pitch 1 as two short pitches. Led half of 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 , 8, 10, and 4c pitch as 13th pitch. The aid bit on p3 is not an overhang as I expected. The easy overhang (massive holds and 2 good bolts) leads to a smooth slab where you can pull on the q draw to get your feet across to the next q draw which you can also pull on. Didn't. need to do this but stood on the piton which seemed to be in the way of a foothold you want to use on the slab. P 4 a superb crack line. Spaced bolting apart from the crux at p3
with K
adam088 ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S With guide Oskar Wahlund
With guide Oskar Wahlund
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd
John Carney ?Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sara C
with Sara C
kes1 17 Sep, 2012 -
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 2nd
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
jonathannewth 2 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Elliot W, Chris W, William W
with Elliot W, Chris W, William W
Pete23 ?Aug, 2010 2nd
liz j ?Jun, 2010 -
with graeme livingston
with graeme livingston
petegunn 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd A superb alpine route on a glorious day :)
A superb alpine route on a glorious day :)
Hidden 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
tractorbachcoch 3 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with Steve Jones (ISM), Teresa
with Steve Jones (ISM), Teresa
Lady T 3 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with Steve Jones (ISM), Iwan
with Steve Jones (ISM), Iwan
existing debt ?Aug, 2007 -
with Iain a
with Iain a
Valaisan 17 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jean-Patrick Baudet (UIAGM)
with Jean-Patrick Baudet (UIAGM)
biggianthead 15 Jul, 2005 - Be prepared for aid moves
with T
Be prepared for aid moves
with T
tjekel ??, 2005 -
Tony Ryland 5 Aug, 2004 -
jamie ward 10 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Tony Buj
with Tony Buj
Paul-Michael 20 Sep, 2000 AltLd O/S Giuded ISM lead last three pitches.
with Steve Monks (ISM)
Giuded ISM lead last three pitches.
with Steve Monks (ISM)
Hidden 21 Aug, 2000 2nd
Celia Watson 21 Aug, 2000 Lead
David Horwood ?Jul, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 1999 AltLd O/S
Maarten2 27 Aug, 1994 AltLd Did use the aid points at the lower pitches - these are the hardest pitches, and not warmed up yet. Rest is brilliant, great views and, as far as I can remember, an easy walking descent. With using aid not harder than 5a or so, maybe even easier.
with Kitti
Did use the aid points at the lower pitches - these are the hardest pitches, and not warmed up yet. Rest is brilliant, great views and, as far as I can remember, an easy walking descent. With using aid not harder than 5a or so, maybe even easier.
with Kitti
Hidden 11 Aug, 1993 Lead
djdavies 8 Jul, 1993 2nd
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set