Rockfax Description
Climb the right arete then move to the left edge briefly before traversing back right again and going directly to a juggy finish. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Townsend 1949.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Paul Tomo | 19 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: This is my best VS route yet, delicate and balance start not to bad in the mid section but the last section and the finish wass brill, will do this route again. VS 4c yes | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is my best VS route yet, delicate and balance start not to bad in the mid section but the last section and the finish wass brill, will do this route again. VS 4c yes |
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Si dH | 29 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Like Nick Id have said direct was fair at HVS 5a, the second or third move (up towards the ledge) definitely felt 5a if you dont use the arete and the start is a bit run out (although soft) 5a, although its also a bit contrived. I can imagine the top being fun for a VS leader, although its really a relatively simple mantel if you keep your head together. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Like Nick Id have said direct was fair at HVS 5a, the second or third move (up towards the ledge) definitely felt 5a if you dont use the arete and the start is a bit run out (although soft) 5a, although its also a bit contrived. I can imagine the top being fun for a VS leader, although its really a relatively simple mantel if you keep your head together. |
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shaun walby | 24 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Direct start i thought was pretty standard VS4c, climbing is excellent for the grade with great final moves through the slight overhang. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Direct start i thought was pretty standard VS4c, climbing is excellent for the grade with great final moves through the slight overhang. |
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Swig | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Best to go up and place you last pieces and then downclimb for a rest before blasting through the finish. Good route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Best to go up and place you last pieces and then downclimb for a rest before blasting through the finish. Good route. |
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MNA123 | 4 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Did direct start and cant make my mind up about the grade, i'd say... easy 5a IMO.Really nice route though, Swung in from the right for the top out expecting there to be a few more holds then there where... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did direct start and cant make my mind up about the grade, i'd say... easy 5a IMO.Really nice route though, Swung in from the right for the top out expecting there to be a few more holds then there where... |
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Swig | 25 May, 2004 |
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βeta: It's not really all that run out, you can get a 00 friend in above you head early on. Plenty of gear above that including some cunning nuts. I think I did the direct start which didn't feel worth 5a. Excellent top out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's not really all that run out, you can get a 00 friend in above you head early on. Plenty of gear above that including some cunning nuts. I think I did the direct start which didn't feel worth 5a. Excellent top out. |
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Jon Greengrass | 26 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: superb, feels like a grade harder high neb buttress, the direct start is best and the top out is wild ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: superb, feels like a grade harder high neb buttress, the direct start is best and the top out is wild ! |
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Simon Caldwell | 27 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Superb route, run out and balancy in the middle, exposed at strenuous at the top. The only thing stopping it getting 3 stars is the ease of escape onto either the descent route or Hollybush crack. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb route, run out and balancy in the middle, exposed at strenuous at the top. The only thing stopping it getting 3 stars is the ease of escape onto either the descent route or Hollybush crack. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 24 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: The direct start is called 'Straight and Narrow' and given HVS 5a in the BMC guide, which sounds about right to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The direct start is called 'Straight and Narrow' and given HVS 5a in the BMC guide, which sounds about right to me. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 23 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: The direct start needs good balance! Not much gear - feels more like HVS? | βeta? | |
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βeta: The direct start needs good balance! Not much gear - feels more like HVS? |
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Monk | 16 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Slightly spoilt as the middle section is right next to the descent route but otherwise excellent and varied. Delicate slabs and juggy overhangs! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Slightly spoilt as the middle section is right next to the descent route but otherwise excellent and varied. Delicate slabs and juggy overhangs! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)