14m.
Rockfax Description
A stiff problem. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor cam) using tiny holds away on the right and a scary slap for the break. The upper part is easier though reachy. It is possible to climb left of the arete at about E2 with a side-runner. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1973.
Ticklists
Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| James Smith | 17 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a 0.1 (small red) cam right at the back of where the 1 (red) goes at the start of the arete. Neither are brilliant but I think if placed well they would hold a fall though I didn\'t test that in anger! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: There is a 0.1 (small red) cam right at the back of where the 1 (red) goes at the start of the arete. Neither are brilliant but I think if placed well they would hold a fall though I didn't test that in anger! |
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| Jakewilson89 | 8 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The marginal cam ripped for me, bounced off the starting block and broke 2 vertebrae. Would spend some time fiddling with RPs or bring a few pads to back up the cam next time. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The marginal cam ripped for me, bounced off the starting block and broke 2 vertebrae. Would spend some time fiddling with RPs or bring a few pads to back up the cam next time. |
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| TomYoung | 23 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Red cam in the break protected my slumps trying to go for the crimp quite well, better than it looks. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Red cam in the break protected my slumps trying to go for the crimp quite well, better than it looks. |
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| Toby Dunn | 25 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too. |
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| Nige M | 5 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too. |
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Route of Interest
Moon Walk
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Curbar Edge)