Rockfax Description
A good route, again low in the grade though the start is quite bold. From a block (low cam) climb the wall using tiny layaways to a good horizontal slot. Continue up a short vertical crack then a wider one, trending right to the top by great climbing. © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 25 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable route and surprisingly varied. I thought it would be about crimping and balancing, but being used to rhyolite rather than grit, I found the meat of the climbing was more about the jamming! Fair at the grade. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable route and surprisingly varied. I thought it would be about crimping and balancing, but being used to rhyolite rather than grit, I found the meat of the climbing was more about the jamming! Fair at the grade. |
||||
| MNA123 | 24 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho! |
||||
| Pythonist | 7 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily. |
||||
| Ram MkiV | 22 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot |
||||
| ericinbristol | 24 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 25 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/ |
||||
| SteveC | 19 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected. 3 stars | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected. 3 stars |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Eye of Faith
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)