12m.

Rockfax Description
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English. © Rockfax

FA. Clive Jones 1977.

Ticklists

Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Wrong grade routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly.
Ropeboy 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky little number, must be worth 5b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tricky little number, must be worth 5b
Short&Savage 1 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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