24m.

Rockfax Description
A full-on jamming pitch. The central section is tough, although bridging helps, and the pull on to the ledge is tricky. Head up the corner on the right and then traverse awkwardly right to a ledge above Tower Face. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950-51.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Brown & Whillans Stanage , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stan , On Peak Rock , Severe Stanage , Proper Cracks UK , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete McGlynn 6 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Finished on right side of arĂȘte.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finished on right side of arĂȘte.
Fraser kid 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some great shapes, I was horizontal at one point!
Mark Stevenson 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!).
Show beta
βeta: Respect to Mr Brown - another awesome route from the 1950s. Had a bit of a fight with it and it felt more like 5b to me and my jamming isn't normally that bad. A good old fashioned route to sort the men from the boys. Worth doing (once!).
bone 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a bitch of a route! Awkward bridging as it forces you to really spread 'em, difficult to jam & not obvious what technique to muse on the main crack. Tried jamming, bridging & laybacking - mostly in vain. Definitely the toughest 5a I've done & think technically it should be 5b, certainly if compared to Goliath Groove.

Logged Ascents

299 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 132 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Joint Effort

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Staden Quarry)

Loading Notifications...