UKH

Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 05/05/2021  

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50m. An exceptionally good wall climb on "predominantly" solid rock. Similar experience to Pagan, perhaps a touch easier?? Star at the diagonal fault and follow this up and rightwards for 8m (reasonable gear). At the pod pull out leftwards onto the wall (original poor peg missing) and boldly weave your way up to the break. The climbing is never that hard but very bold. On arrival at the break, scurry back and fro along this seeking out the best gear. Cross the overlaps in the centre of the wall passing a good situ thread. (Good gear in next break). Continue up the wall more steeply and past better gear to a peg. Make harder moves passing this and another peg above. Easier ground and the top follows.

Littlejohn & Hardwick 12/Mar/1987.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Ultimate E4 ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mick Lovatt 26 Jan Show βeta
βeta: All fixed gear replaced March 2020. First poor peg at 12m is now missing and poor rock quality in that area won’t permit replacement.
Show beta
βeta: All fixed gear replaced March 2020. First poor peg at 12m is now missing and poor rock quality in that area won’t permit replacement.
Moza 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First peg is gone now 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First peg is gone now
Steve Long 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbers less than 5'10" or with normal "ape index" should take care to plug several cams in below the first of the pegs in the headwall. Taller climbers can clip the top peg before committing, but otherwise if the peg rips (it's not bombproof) you are totally reliant on the cams holding.
Show beta
βeta: Climbers less than 5'10" or with normal "ape index" should take care to plug several cams in below the first of the pegs in the headwall. Taller climbers can clip the top peg before committing, but otherwise if the peg rips (it's not bombproof) you are totally reliant on the cams holding.

Logged Ascents

65 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Doris

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Rock Cover
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ground Up
By Simon Panton
Lleyn Cover
Lleyn (2002)
Climbers' Club
By Dave Ferguson, Iwan Arfon Jones, Pat Littlejohn
Guidebook correction for this climb
32 users have this on their wishlist

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 31
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Purple Rain

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Craig Bodlyn)

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