OutDoor 2019 - New Climbing Shoes and Footwear Show Report

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UKC/UKH Trade Show Reports

8th July, 2019

This has been read 12,141 times

Brands:
Arc'teryx,
Black Diamond,
Boreal,
Dolomite,
EB,
Five Ten,
Hanwag,
La Sportiva,
Ocun,
Red Chili,
Scarpa,
Tenaya,
Unparallel

We're just back from the annual summer gear-fest that is the OutDoor trade show. As Europe sweltered in the heat the world's outdoor industry gathered in Munich to network, drink beer and showcase their shiny new stuff. For us it's a great opportunity to catch up with brands both big and small, and check out some of the products that'll be hitting the shops in the near future. Here is a roundup of the most eye-catching new climbing shoes and mountain footwear:

Black Diamond - Approach Shoes

Black Diamond have designed a whole new range of approach shoes for 2020. There are four in total, ranging from soft and comfortable through to more supportive and technical. The Black Label rubber is designed to be a fine balance between sticky and durable, but erring on the side of grip. The Black Label Street rubber is harder wearing and suitable for transferring yourself from coffee shop to the indoor wall (how very modern!).

Boreal - Ace and Ballet RRP £110 & £120

Two blasts from the past in modern form. Each offers a flat last, with a nice supportive feel - ideal for all day comfort. The ballet features a cotton lining and padded ankle support, which is the height of luxury.

Boreal - Beta RRP £75

An entry level shoe, with a completely new last shape: quite symmetrical, a little down turned, slightly less volume around the forefoot, and a narrower heel. It also looks great, is machine washable, and comes in at a keen price.

Five Ten - Hiangle, Crawe, Kirigami

The Hiangle has been updated for 2019. One of their most popular shoes. The heel and tensioning has been redesigned. The sole unit is split between the heel and forefoot to enable flexion in the midfoot. The cut of the heel enables it to readjust for different heel sizes. Now with a microfibre upper, not as stretchy as leather. The Crawe is totally new. It has a concave forefoot but is designed to feel fairly flat but still give lots of pulling power in the toe. It has a semi-stiff forefoot. As it's flat it's well suited to climbing on volumes. It has quite a wide fit and climbs similarly to a Moccasym although it edged really well. It has a tensioned band across the top of the forefoot to keep the foot in position. The Kirigami is an entry level shoe. The fit is amazing for an entry level shoe and it is, in fact, suitable for mid level climbing too. The heel also fits well. Available in a rental version. There is also a kids version which is designed to let children's feet stay in a neutral position.

Hanwag - Banks RRP £200

A completely new Banks which addresses the UK requirement for a Y shaped last. The Banks holds the instep and heel giving a great hold but space for the toes. It's made using Gold standard and sustainable leather and cast metal features. The outsole is wide to give extra stability and the shoe is stitched from the inside. Available in a straight and narrow fit.

La Sportiva - Competition Shoes RRP £145 & £100

The Olympics are coming and with it a new generation of specialist shoes. The 4:99 is specifically designed with speed climbing in mind, with a half length sole unit to help reduce weight. The Solution Comp has a lighter and more sensitive construction than it's predecessor, with a completely redesigned heel and more rubber in/around the toe.

La Sportiva - Theory RRP £145

There's a whole lot of rubber around the Theory, which gives it a very modern look. It's springy last gives it a lot of extra push too. Ideally suited towards steep terrain, with a soft and sensitive feel.

La Sportiva - TX Pro + TX 5 Low GTX RRP £145 & £150

TX Pro is for Professional, with a durable and comfortable feel. The sole has good lugs on the sole, providing enough grip on grass. The TX 5 Low is another workhorse, more for grass and approach than for rock - very British!

Red Chilli - Mystix RRP £135

The Mystix is a top end shoe, which delivers power through the toe + edge whilst still offering a bit of flex for those awkward smears. The streamlined heel is clearly good for heel hooking (as you'd hope) but it also helps drive further force through the toe. Rubber around the toe also makes it ideal for toe hooks and scumming whilst bouldering.

Scarpa - Booster RRP £145

Halfway in between the Boostic and the Drago, the Booster is medium soft (but not THAT soft), but most of all it is precise. Due to its precision around the toe it's geared more for sport than boulders, but could realistically be used for either. It also features an amazing looking heel, with a softer insert that looks extremely grabby.

Scarpa - Vapour Lace RRP £145

The Vapour Lace - like all other Scarpa offerings for SS20 - are vegan. The Vapour Lace builds on the Vapour V's design by building in a bit of extra support and a new last in the heel. Using a full length midsole + sole unit to stiffen up the shoe, this is the one you want for the edges!! Available in both men's and women's versions.

Scarpa - Veloce RRP £115

Probably the most technical beginner shoe ever made, insofar as it is designed for the new wave of people getting into the sport through indoor walls. As such, they don't need the support they might have if they were heading straight outside. Furthermore, how cool do they look?!

SoiLL - Core Climbing Range

SoiLL have recently arrived on British shores, with a range of unique designs (possible understatement?!). They have a wide and varied range that is suitable for a wide range of users, from the first time indoor climber to the seasoned outdoor athlete. Handmade in the USA.

Tenaya - Indalo + Merus RRP £145 - £150

Two new products for SS20, which represent the top end of the Tenaya range. Designed with hard, technical climbing in mind, albeit with one Lace-up and the other Velcro - hence they each have a subtle difference in what they're suitable for.

Tenaya - Mastia RRP £140

Tenaya are a brand renowned for their narrow fit, but the Mastia branches out into a much wider last. It's soft and technical, with a completely new heel. As such, it's a shoe ideal for those who've never used the Tenaya brand. Most suitable for bouldering and steep sport climbing.

Unparallel - Regulus, UpLace, Sirius RRP £110 - £120

The Regulus, UpLace, Sirius were recently reviewed on UKC by Nick Brown, but here Pat takes us through the tech specs once again. Made in the USA they are well made and built to last, with a highly sticky rubber compound.

Unparallel - Vim + NewTro Lace

The Vim is a slipper with support, which is an unusual but welcome addition for those tired of a constant stream of soft shoes coming to the market. The NewTro uses a harder compound rubber, which makes it better for edging and is therefore ideal for British sport climbing (and its endless small footholds).

Arc'teryx - Konseal LT

A pair of superlight approach shoes. A new model inspired by Squamish - ideal for carrying on and descending from routes. Megagrip rubber gives excellent traction for approaches. The shoes are very soft and comfortable inside, ideal for after climbing!

Arc'teryx - Norvan LD 2

The Norvan LD 2 is a Trail Running shoe from Arc'teryx. The name is a call out to North Vancouver. They've reduced the weight and maintained the durability from the previous version. It's designed for long runs with a variety of terrain on the Trail. The sole sheds a lot of weight by reducing the thickness of the rubber. Featuring a new midsole with Elastamer and the insole sheds water.

EB - Shoe Range RRP £70 - £120

The Mojo is EB's entry level shoe with a neutral fit. Designed to be the first shoe you buy. The rubber is sticky but very durable, great for newer climbers.

Dolomite - Diagonal Air RRP £120 - £140

Perfect as an approach shoe or for hiking. Available in both GTX and non GTX versions. Super lightweight and breathable approach shoe. One piece upper with a single piece upper with a big thick rubber rand giving your toes lots of protection. The sole unit is dual density with nice cushioning on the heel and ball of the foot. A vibram outsole for good grip on rock.

Dolomite - Steinbock WT RRP £180-£200

Ocun - Nitro RRP £134.95

A radically down turned, asymmetrical, soft shoe designed for high end bouldering. It has Ocuns 3 Force System which gives rand coverage on the in and outstep to give tension power throughout the forefoot. The neoprene sock gives a comfortable and snug fit.

Comments

purplemonkeyelephant

8 Jul, 2019

Can I say on behalf of all vegans, thankyou Scarpa for getting your vegan range going! Hoping the Vapour V goes the same way.

Not sure about waiting a whole year to get my hands on them though... Who's back do I have to scratch at UKC to become chief vegan correspondent and get some models to test?

purplemonkeyelephant

8 Jul, 2019

Dude, what's your problem?

Rob Parsons

8 Jul, 2019

Would have liked to hear more about the new Boreal Ballet, but that was a pretty useless review.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

8 Jul, 2019

No doubt we'll get a pair in for review as/when they arrive next year, but in the meanwhile watch this space...

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

8 Jul, 2019

Yes, it was an interesting to see that this development went beyond just a single product and onto each and every release for 2020. What we should have asked (but didn't) was whether this is something we can expect to see as standard. I'll see if I can find this out the next time I bump into Nathan...

I'm not sure your comment is really worth engaging with, but just wanted to say that anyone with the username 'TheClimbingWallCritic' is highly unlikely to be the life and soul of the party ;-)

Not that I've ever met the guy, but purplemonkeyelephant at least sounds he has the potential to be a laugh - if a little psychedelic...

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