The Moon Fingerboard

“Make finger strength the number one priority in your training, work on your weaknesses and never drink on an empty stomach”.........Malcolm Smith

Moon Fingerboard
© Moon Climbing, Nov 2006
The fingerboard from Moon has managed to achieve a superb compromise between using its space efficiently whilst fitting in plenty of good holds; this comes from Moon's ethos that less is more. The simplicity of the design means that it won't look too out place sitting above a door in your house either. The board is best mounted on to a plywood backing before affixing to the wall which makes for a very secure platform. It is often the case for people to buy training equipment only to be left in the dark as to how to get the best use from it. Another bonus of the Moon fingerboard is that it comes with free after support and training tips / routines from Moon's website, written by Richard Simpson.

The holds on the board itself are very tendon friendly. All of the pockets have a slight slope to them so as not to overstretch the tendons when hanging open handed, and the crimp edges are slightly in-cut meaning you are less likely to explode off them and rupturing something in the process. The complete absence of any big jugs on the board aim it more at the intermediate to advanced climber, which is the only sector which could advisably use the board in any case.

I've been using the board for about two months now, and I have seen some gains. One thing I have found to be true of this board is that I feel far fewer aches and pains following a hard session due to the holds being a friendly shape without diminishing the effect of them for training.

  • Available from and at all good climbing shops.
  • Price:: £45.00

  • 20 Nov, 2006
    i've been looking to buy a fingerboard for my room so cheers for the review....i had seen the Moon one in the shops but felt the hold selection a bit limited but maybe that's because it doesn't have any big jugs....why bother training to hang big jugs anyway i 'spose.
    13 Dec, 2006
    Indeed making your own fingerboard is an option, however buying a set of holds and fixings and backing on which to mount the whole lot is probably not a whole lot less expensive than buying one of these at £45 which has been specificaly designed by proffesionals to help your training be as effective as it can be. (it's also a whole lot less hassle)
    13 Dec, 2006
    I agree. Best to do the job properly rather than try and economise and end up with firewood and an injury! £45 is pretty damn cheap too, but then climbing is a very inexpensive sport anyway.