Winter Abseil

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 RedEd 17 Dec 2018

Browsing my Scottish Winter Climbing guide book I read mention of descending into the east face of Aonach Mor by abseiling over the cornice into Easy Gully. 

Is it common to abseil to access winter climbs, and if so are anchors in place? Is there a standard practice for creating an anchor? taking a dead man, snow stakes, making a snow bollard etc? 

 

Post edited at 17:08
 Kirill 17 Dec 2018
In reply to RedEd:

Do you mean east face of Aonach Mor? If so then usual practice is to dig a snow bollard. Make sure you're far enough from the edge as the cornice can be quite large. If the cornice is small it's sometimes possible to forego the abseil and instead down-climb on the left side of the gully (facing out). Once you visited the place a few times and know the layout it's possible to abseil from the fence posts down the line of the intended route. But it will take at least 2 abseils and you'd have to leave gear (which you can collect as you climb back up)

Post edited at 17:10
OP RedEd 17 Dec 2018
In reply to Kirill:

Yes

OP RedEd 17 Dec 2018
In reply to Kirill:

thanks!

 Kirill 17 Dec 2018
In reply to RedEd:

see my edited post above

OP RedEd 17 Dec 2018
In reply to Kirill:

Good info, thank you!

 Michael Gordon 17 Dec 2018
In reply to RedEd:

Though useful for some venues or if the descent to a route is suspected to be avalanche-prone, it generally isn't common to approach Scottish winter routes by abseil. Thus it's rare to find anchors or gear in place for this.

 Mark Stevenson 18 Dec 2018
In reply to RedEd: 

> Is it common to abseil to access winter climbs, and if so are anchors in place?

It's a fairly common approach, at least at certain venues, especially in high avalanche conditions. Initial anchors are rarely in place, subsequent anchors, if required, sometimes will be.

Abseiling into Aonach Mor is very common. The abseil is from a snow bollard if avoiding a cornice in the gully. However if abseiling down further North, the first abseil is generally from the fence posts down the snow slope to large boulders where there is sometimes rope or slings in place. Subsequent abseil anchors were generally in place last Winter, either from spikes or at belays stances such as the first stance on Left Twin (III).

Abseiling down Faicaill Buttress in  Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda to climb The Seam (IV 5) is a good option when the approach slopes are too dangerous. Similarly, routes on No 4 Buttress in  Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan can be approached by abseil, often down the line of Fallout Corner (Winter) (VI 7).

As with Aonach Mor, No match for crag id:16730 is often approached by abseil, either down the approach gully or directly down the route.

> Is there a standard practice for creating an anchor? taking a dead man, snow stakes, making a snow bollard etc? 

In the cases I've mentioned above in the Cairngorms the abseils are all from obvious boulders. As such, all that is needed is large slings and/or abseil tat. In many cases you'll remove it climbing back out but if leaving tat in place it is good practice to leave something relatively substantial (7mm upwards) and remove any old stuff rather than just add to it.

 

Post edited at 13:26
 Rich W Parker 18 Dec 2018
In reply to RedEd:

It's not standard to abseil into Scottish winter climbs but it can be a way to gain access without having to deal with hazardous approach slopes. Then again that can bring it's own problems, e.g. you need to be fairly sure you'll be able to climb out! 

As well as Easy Gully it's possible to abseil directly in to the Central Buttress area. A good marker is the first fence post north of the ski patrol hut which is where the buttress arrives at the plateau, this is usually free of significant cornicing. People often abseil off the post, but I would equalise it with a buried anchor. Looking down, the Gully to the left leads into Left Twin and the flank off to the right leads to the Morwind area. More than one abseil required, it's fairly easy to find intermediary anchors. Obviously it's possible to interfere with people climbing up so I'd be inclined to make it early and contain the ropes whilst descending.


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