Sgurr nan Clach Gaela

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 TechnoJim 28 Aug 2021

Hello,

I'm working in Scotland next month and I'm going to go for a trundle round the Fannaichs to do a bit of pre-winter route finding with no snow on the ground, it's not an area I've really explored before.

Looking at the map and topo, getting to the col and lochan between Sgurr nan Clach Gaela and Carn na Criche seems straightforward, but I'm finding the description of how to get to the terrace below the cliff slightly more confusing. 

Am I over-thinking it and will it be obvious once I've got eyes on it, or can anyone offer any tips?

Ta, Jim.

 rogerwebb 28 Aug 2021
In reply to TechnoJim:

You are probably over thinking it. You will be fine. It gets more obvious once you start descending. It isn't the end of the world if you end up at the bottom of the corrie (providing you don't arrive there in an uncontrolled manner...) climbing back up to the terrace is not that much of an annoyance. 

Best done in good visibility the first time and not much fun, and a bit worrying on a 'wet grass' day though. 

OP TechnoJim 28 Aug 2021
In reply to rogerwebb:

Many thanks Roger. I know it's too early to be getting excited about Scottish winter but last year was such a shitter for those of us south of the border I can't help it. I had to drive  the length of Scotland twice in the middle of the good conditions in February and it was an absolute sickener being able to look but not touch.

Edited to add that it was obviously rubbish for everyone who couldn't get out, irrespective of location, and I totally understand why we couldn't go and play. Just got two years worth of motivation bottled up and ready to go. Fingers crossed for good conditions.

Post edited at 13:50
 rogerwebb 28 Aug 2021
In reply to TechnoJim:

It's not too early to get excited!

Having missed the best of last winter I am too and know what you mean. 

 DaveHK 28 Aug 2021
In reply to TechnoJim:

The description in the next guide is likely to be something like the below. If you go, let me know how it works!

There is a large boulder (NH 1875 7230) about 150m north west of the lochan on the col which makes a good gearing up point. The descent from here to the bottom of the cliff is quite serious as it is initially steep, convex and can accumulate windslab or become very icy. Go to the north end of the col just where the slope begins to rise towards Càrn na Crìche.  Descend steeply for about 50m until the slope angle eases and follow the easing to the right (south) descending slightly. Pass underneath a gully then go round an edge at a flatter, bouldery area. Cross a second gully (Slanting Gully) above its steeper pitch to reach a terrace below the cliff. 

Post edited at 18:27
OP TechnoJim 28 Aug 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

Thanks Dave, the use of north/south in the descriptions and the reference to the rise towards Carn na Criche definitely adds clarity which confirms my interpretation of the present text in Northern Highlands Centra - presumably you're working on an updated version?

The bit that threw me in the current edition was about crossing Slanting Gully above it's steeper pitch to gain the terrace. I couldn't make that marry up in my in my mind with where I'd expect to 'emerge' onto the topo photo following the descent from the col, but I suspect it's the angle/position that that photo is taken from.

I'm a total s*** punter but I'm planning to be all over that bit of the Highlands this winter (weather permitting!) so if you want any feedback on the guide then I'd be happy to oblige.

Jim

 DaveHK 28 Aug 2021
In reply to TechnoJim:

Hi Jim, 

All feedback and any photos gratefully received! 

I too was a bit confused by the old description although it was actually easy enough to work out when you were there.

I went up to look at it a few weeks ago so it would be useful to know if it makes sense in the winter too.

 DaveHK 28 Aug 2021
In reply to TechnoJim:

> The bit that threw me in the current edition was about crossing Slanting Gully above it's steeper pitch to gain the terrace. 

The pitch in Slanting Gully is in a lower tier below the terrace/main crag.

OP TechnoJim 28 Aug 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

Cool.

I've got designs on some of the less-visited areas around Glen Affric and Strathfarrar too, also the area around Seanna Bhraigh, although that falls into Northern Highlands North. I'll send you anything useful on access/approaches/easy routes etc, info on hard climbs will have to be left to people who can actually climb hard!

 rogerwebb 28 Aug 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

> Hi Jim, 

> All feedback and any photos gratefully received! 

> I too was a bit confused by the old description although it was actually easy enough to work out when you were there.

> I went up to look at it a few weeks ago so it would be useful to know if it makes sense in the winter too.

The old description is one of those that works well once you have started it and even better once you have done it. Your new one may make a summer recce less desirable which for those who don't live around here is a very good thing.

It does sound spot on from memory. 

The windslab and ice warning is well added. 

Coincidentally I am going up there to have a look at the exit possibilities later in the month and will be trying to get photos of the descent and ascent options. I will send you copies if they are any good. 

 DaveHK 28 Aug 2021
In reply to rogerwebb:

Cheers Roger.

I expect you'll be hearing a lot from me in the next wee while!

Post edited at 20:16

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