UKH

Hello. I'm looking for tips on a really good route which is currently 'in'; preferrably a gully at grade I/II though I'd certainly consider a ridge. I've recently been up Sgorr Bhan - Schoolouse Ridge, Lochnagar - The Black Spout, and Ben Lui - Central Gully. 

About a month ago I went for a go-look-see at Stob Ban - South Gully, and backed off as the conditions were too slushy and warm. I did see a small group roped up that day which I assumed was a guide and clients. 

Sorry for being a pest again. I've got this coming Sunday, Monday, and Wednesday as options for another adventure. 

And I'd really like to use these shiny new axes of mine a bit more before the season is over.

Thank you

A good place to start is here https://www.sais.gov.uk/
look at the aspect of the gully and the avalanche forecast, my advice would to steer clear of gullies and fairly steep slopes on approach and descent on the aspects in the report that are 'considerable' risk on the scale or higher, note that compared with aspects with the highest avalanche risk, aspects on the other side of the mountain are often much lower. Avalanche risk is often related to recent snow fall / snow conditions (ie how powdery /easily wind blown it is) and recent wind directions. Thankfully unlike skiing aspect with lowest avalanche risk normally have the best climbing conditions!

Sometimes there are burried weakness in the snowpack too but that tends to be more complex to account for and will be accounted for in the report anyway.

If you are going to approach and descend on 'considerable' risk aspect take care to stay out of terrain traps and the higher risk areas like gullies especially under cornices and if you must then be quick in these areas.

One thing to note is that 'considerable' risk is a wide band and you have to interpret it often. Many times you can be on the low end of it during your day and digging pits and assessing terrain and be fairly safe, but the higher end of it (on the aspects mentioned) or the levels above are not to be taken lightly IMO.

Bare in mind there are days with high avalanche risk on some aspects that are acceptable risk on other aspects.

Very often on the SAIS report for gullies and the aspects mentioned low risk will be very good conditions (assuming there is enough snow and its below freezing the SAIS blogs and MWIS are useful too), Moderate risk especially if it appears a bit borderline (to low risk)  is still often reasonable or even  good conditions for the aspects mentioned but do be a bit more wary.

Gullies often don't often come in to good condition until mid season or so for future reference.

Also check recent log book comments here https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/conditions/uk_winter/

Disclaimer even slopes that are low risk in the SAIS report can be dangerous its up to you to make sure you are aware of the risks and know how to assess them. 'Moderate' risk certainly isn't completely safe you'll probably find the most avalanches with people involved on these aspects occur not far from this SAIS level as more people take the risk ( I 'think' its 'considerable' level but I don't have a source for this)

When you get good at reading the SAIS reports and the recent forecasts etc, its often fairly straight forward to know low end of a risk band or high, I've often steered clear of 'considerable' aspects completely when I thought is was borderline High risk only to hear there have been multiple slides that day on the riskier aspects even in fairly innocuous terrain.

Thanks CurlyStevo. I check for the SAIS reports daily (they usually start coming in around 15:30). Everything you've said is spot on 👌 I wouldn't head for an aspect with anything more than a moderate risk.

On Wednesday there, Central Gully on Ben Lui had thin patches of new snow on it which would break into small slabs. But it wasn't enough to be a concern at that moment. What made it a bit tricky though was the solid ice beneath the thin layer of neve at the top steep section. I'm glad I took 2 axes.

Each day this past week I've been expecting the avalanche risk to tip into moderate or higher in the Glencoe area, and Lochaber area. But so far so good.

If there's a chance the risks will remain reasonable over the coming days I'd like to have a route planned out, map printed, descriptions/reports/pictures/video studied. I'd be happy to head for a ridge if it's in winter condition. I've been eyeing the brilliant pictures of Carn Dearg Meadhonach East Ridge on the SAIS Lochaber reports, but the new snow doesn't appear to have accumulated enough to justify the long drive up yet.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/conditions/uk_winter/#crag_491

The conditions page lonked gives a good idea of what is getting done. I believe alot of the easier stuff high on the Ben is in good condition currently 

Cheers Graeme, I really appreciate that.

I forgot to mention that as well as the SAIS site, I also watch the UKC latest winter ascents page like a hawk throughout the day.  

On going up Ben Lui Central Gully on Wednesday I noticed 3 others way ahead of me going up. Plus I passed another person on the path as they were heading back after completing the route. But besides me, only 1 other person logged their ascent on here. So I guess I'm hoping others may have been up something really nice recently but just didn't record it.

I'm really keen to get up no. 5 gully on the Ben. The amount of new snow up there may mean that by Wednesday (which according to the forecast will be the best day weather-wise) the avalanche risk may be too high.

Of course I could head up for a look and have the CMD or ledge route for back up. But I've done the CMD twice, and I've never been up ledge route before so would be a bit apprehensive as I'd be doing it alone.

Last Sat I went up #2 Gully which was in great condition but the exit was steep at the cornice, so unless you are used to these steep exits I would take care. 

I also had a look down Gardyloo Gully and the exit on that looked extremely steep and nuts.

Hope that helps

Euge

Hi Euge. That does help, thank you.

I was up Central Gully Ben Lui last Wednesday and the exit was a bit steep there too. I arrived quite late in the day and I'm sure I was last person that high on the hill which, being on my own, heightened the sense adventure quite a bit.

Topped out about 16:30 and a coastgaurd helicopter passed by underneath heading north. A nice touch to the day I thought, though I hope it was on a training exercise.

Thanks again. I may head for the Ben this weekend for a look.