UKH

Hi all,

Been a while since my last post but ma gearing for another trip to Rjukan in Feb 2019 and just wondering if anyone has any idea as to the current conditions? Anyone been? Anyone there? Anyone going before Feb that could report back?

Thanks in advance,

Dave

The Facebook group "Climb Rjukan/Tinn" could be quite useful.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/118510158161538/

See the useful FB link that SturlaS has provided you. We are there from 23 January for a week and provide update posts on that link or on Instagram Rab6t.  Hopefully the Scottish conditions will be coming in on our return...! Cheers

Thanks for the posts all - We head on 3rd Feb - From the most recent pics looks like we need to keep the fingers cross for a decent cold snap.

@Rab6t - Will be interested to see your updates as you are there a week before us....

Dave

I've been to Rjukan twice this year (first time mid-December; second time this weekend just past).

Even with the warm spell that they've had, there's still ice to be climbed.

Sure, a lot of routes aren't formed yet, but if you're going anyway, you can make it work.

A couple of the routes at Ozzimosis were better in December, but most routes at both Ozzimosis and Krokan were better this time around (more ice, and not as hard or brittle - better sticks all around).

I haven't been to any of the other crags.

As said, the Climb Rjukan/Tinn Facebook group is your best chance of finding out about the latest conditions. I've posted a few pictures from this weekend there if you want to take a look

I'll be back on the 11th of February for a few days: I will be posting pics of the conditions on the group

Thanks for the update - Will keep looking on the FB page

In Rjukan this week.

Krokan is quite well formed, all the reliable routes are in, care is still needed walking down the river as some pools have open water but this can be avoided by circuitous routes, rope in place to pass sector Arne. Quite busy on Tuesday with instructional groups.

We climbed Vemorkbrufoss Ost on Wednesday, it was harder than normal, very few signs of previous passage. Approaches on the river are hard work as its a boulder field as far as the eye can see covered with 5cm snow. Vemorkbrufoss Vest the top section is missing. We heard that Sabotorfossen and Bakvein both have pitches missing. Trappfoss looks good from the road and I believe it has been done recently according to the Facebook report.

Climbed at Gaustatoppenfossene yesterday, very little snow so walk in is easy. The ice is very brittle, getting good axe placements is hard work and feet were very insecure, worst I have ever experienced, would not recommend it at the moment. You can drive all the way to the start of the path, it was -11 when we got back to the car.

Forecast for cold conditions until the end of next week so you may have better ice in February.

Ozzimosis today, very busy, all main routes ok with the exception of Ozzimosis itself which is just touching down.

In my previous post I mentioned a rope in place to pass sector Arne, I meant sector Fission Bowl.

Brilliant - Thanks Keith - Still 2 weeks till we go and had noticed the temp's dropping so here's hoping for a few more routes to come into their own.

We climb around WI2 / WI3 @ a push - Any recommendations of a good multi-pitch @ those grades?

If you are still there, I hope you have an enjoyable and safe trip.

DB

Excellent; thank you for the update. 

I'm going back on the second week of February - it's good to hear that conditions are improving.

Trappfoss has indeed been done recently - someone I know did it 2 weeks ago

So - Spent last week (3-10 Feb) in Rjukan. Second year there now and had another great trip.

Conditions held for us with temps ranging from -7 to 0 - Snow most days which hampered in some ways with a lot of cleaning to be done on some routes.

We climbed mostly @ Krokan this year across 2 different areas, Left End and Bullen - Both in great condition and giving good ice. Also climbed @ Ozimossis which was for the most part in great condition as well though some routes have not formed.

We also spent time looking for easier Multi-Pitch climbs (Scottish Gully (Lower Gorge), Jungleboka (Lower Gorge), Kvitta and some up @ Gusta) all were sadly snowed in and therefore un-climbable - But at least now we know where they are should we return.

This week seems to be shaping up to be warmer with some reports coming of routes dripping - I posted  a few updates with pics over on the FB page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/118510158161538/ so check those out there.

For anyone else that heads that way this year - Happy and Safe Climbing

DB

It's forecast to be plus degrees at least until the next weekend, after which it will have largely been two weeks of plus degrees by that point. Anything up to 7 or 8 degrees expected some days in Rjukan Centre. I'm somewhat begrudgingly going rock climbing this weekend!

Ozzimosis was in good condition yesterday. Lots of pockets though. Those of the neighbouring routes that were formed were fine too. Soft but not dripping ice.