Protecting Gully Routes

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 Reader_Rambles 27 Nov 2018

Done some low graded routes in Scotland when guided but routes such as "Central Trinity" in Snowdon for when the snow gets too much that you can't find features, how do you protect them?

Thanks in advance 

 CurlyStevo 27 Nov 2018
In reply to Reader_Rambles:

A gully usually has defined side walls. Some venues the gully walls tend to be less protect-able than others, pegs can be useful.

If there really is no rock with cracks in to be dug out and you can't find any ice (including digging for it) for screws or turf for bulldog etc there aren't many options. You can use a deadman. If you don't have one typically you'd run it out to the next belay (which may be a snow belay such as buried axes & bucket seat). 

Typically if you keep looking you can find some gear if you need it, although the finishing pitches on big gullies less so.

In very firm neve you can use snow stakes as running protection also.

Post edited at 17:09
2
In reply to Reader_Rambles:

A buried axe and bucket seat can work well in certain situations as a belay, with limitations obviously. 

Generally speaking its possible to find something on gully side walls, whether its using wires, hexes or maybe even pegs to build a belay or to protect a pitch will just depend on the route and conditions. 

 TobyA 27 Nov 2018
In reply to Reader_Rambles:

Central Trinity is mainly a snow slope. I don't remember placing many runners, I think I found a spike and maybe used a warthog or hook in turf to make a belay.

In more normal gullies you just look for gear on the walls, with varying degrees of success normally.

 LakesWinter 27 Nov 2018
In reply to Reader_Rambles:

When it gets really banked out it can be a problem - I think I placed 9 bits in total in the 350m of Penguin Gully last March


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