UKH

/ Mid wales low altitude exotica

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iksander on 22 Feb 2018

How long does it take for the likes of Maesglasau, Pistyll Rhyaeadr, Mynach etc to come in?  Could the beast from the east get us there?

timjones - on 22 Feb 2018
In reply to iksander:

I've just been studying the forecasts and considering this question.

 

I suspect that the beast from the east is not going to be anywhere near beastly enough to bring much in

giles - on 22 Feb 2018
In reply to iksander:

cant answer your question directly but live close to pistyl rhaeadr so if its cold for a week i'll be checking it out and looking for a partner free at short notice.

ianstevens - on 22 Feb 2018
In reply to iksander:

a long, long time - I'd be amazed if they come in this side of the next ice age

Post edited at 17:45
2
iksander on 22 Feb 2018
In reply to ianstevens:

> a long, long time - I'd be amazed if they come in this side of the next ice age

That's Monday according to the Daily Express...

Dave Williams - on 22 Feb 2018
In reply to ianstevens:

> a long, long time - I'd be amazed if they come in this side of the next ice age

Hopefully this was said in jest and wasn't meant to be taken seriously, otherwise it's very misleading.

They don't take all that long, given the right conditions and assuming good groundwater/ surface flow prior to the cold spell. In the last, ahem, 'ice age' (2009-2010 and 2010 -2011 seasons), it only took about 12 days of severe frost (-10C to -15C overnight temperatures), with correspondingly low, ideally consistently sub-zero daytime temperatures, to bring Maesglasau into excellent, fat condition. It can be in climbable condition, but lean and with holes, after 8 days or so, when the RH variation is normally taken on pitch 3.

Pistyll Rhaeadr takes longer, on account of verticality and flow amounts I suppose. Quicksilver can take a good 3 weeks, but Chandelier has formed after 12 days or so of severe frost.

The situation's broadly the same with regards to Pistyll y Llyn, Rhaeadr Nant Ddeiliog and Ffrwd Fawr further south. The latter takes a good 3 weeks; both others about 10 days or so of severe frost.

If the current forecast's correct, I don't think it's going to be cold enough next week. 

HTH

Dave

 

 

snowblader - on 06 Mar 2018

Sorry for a multitude of questions, research for the next so called ice age! Does pistyll y llyn have a grade? Is it in an old guide? Also where is nant ddeiliog? Bala way?

PaulTclimbing - on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to iksander:

Think in the end, Maesglasu Falls was climbed. Aber falls up north was climbed and a few rarely forming falls in south wales near Torpantau Falls were climbed. Was Pistyll Rhaeadr climbed or Trojan ( I know its high up) as they would all be great ticks to have?

TobyA on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to PaulTclimbing:

Colonial Virgin on Cader was repeated by Bullock and Co, didn't hear mention of Trojan.

ianstevens - on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to Dave Williams:

It was, don't worry! I actually went for a look at Trojan on Sunday - bit thin and drippy low down for my tastes by that point in time.

Post edited at 08:22
Dave Williams - on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to snowblader:

> Sorry for a multitude of questions, research for the next so called ice age! Does pistyll y llyn have a grade? Is it in an old guide? Also where is nant ddeiliog? Bala way?

Pistyll y Llyn is a big, bifurcated fall. The LH branch is III(4) and the RH is IV(5). It was in condition last week.  It's not in any guide, old or new (as yet). 

Nant Ddeiliog V(6) is in Powys, much further south than Bala. A 6(!) pitch route, it too was in good condition last week and was climbed.

Both these routes are fully described (with maps and action photos) in the Winter Climbing section of the hopefully (very) soon to be published Central Wales guidebook. Also fully described are:

Pistyll Hengwm 140m II (3) 

Ceunant Esgairfochnant 250m II–III (2)

Ffrwd Fawr 50m VI (6)

Craig y Pistyll 65m V (5)

Pistyll Leri 30m III (2)

Rhaeadr Mynach 50m II (3)

All are pure ice climbs (in the Maesglasau mode - but not as good nor as spectacular) and require a prolonged and/ or very severe frost. Unlike in 2010, the 'Beast from the East' didn't last long enough to bring Ffrwd Fawr into condition, but it was very nearly there on its LH side.

HTH

Dave

Post edited at 11:28

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