UKH

With good ground conditions how long does it take to get to Lurchers Crag via either the Chalamain Gap or Lochain path approaches?  It looks like the main reason for choosing one approach over the other is whether you are climbing on the North or South ends of the crag - is that the case or there other reasons too?

Having taken our "gear for a walk" two weeks ago when attempting to reach it I'm keen to know how long it normally takes - I'd estimated a couple of hours. We got caught out by masses of powder from just before the Gap to the base of the crag and it ended up taking us 3.5 hours to get to the foot of the northern end by which time we were spent and didn't have time to do the climb and get back before well after dark. So we beat a retreat. On the way there we went above the Chalamain Gap on it's left side, and that worked well. On the way back we came through the Gap to see what it was like and ended up stumbling around the large boulders - I can't imagine this way is ever a good option (unless the boulders are buried by consolidated snow?).  

I'd say for anything other than the northmost routes it's usually quicker approaching up the Macdui path from the ski centre. Its significantly shorter going that way. That's assuming you don't mind the usual issues with going in from the top of a route i.e. locating the descent, locating the route and assessing the avalanche risk. The descent down South Gully is actually pretty easy to find as it starts just where the final rise to the top of Creag an Leth Choin begins.

 The exception might be if there was lots of snow up high and less low down.

I climbed there last Feb for the first time. I don't actually remember how long it took but I don't remember it seeming that epic - not a massive amount of ascent for example.  We had a fair amount of powder snow, and I manage to break a walking pole going through the gap - but it's only a shortish section. We were more conscious of it being a terrain trap for avalanches although the risk was low the day we went there.

It was thigh-deep snow a lot of the way. I suppose we should have taken the hint when we had to dig the van into the Sugarbowl carpark.

Haven't approached via Sugar Bowl before but from Lochain path it took us just under 1.5 hours I think to the top of South Gully. There was a few deep drifts about and we cut off from the path going right to reach the hill too soon, we went back the day after and stayed true to the path until the last opportunity and found it much easier going. With good snow conditions or a clear blown path it's actually relatively quick, having a bit of visibility on the first visit is definitely helpful. There can't be much in it between there and slogging up to Coire an Lochain!

Looking down at the valley from above made me quite happy I didn't walk in that way!

Not really relevant to your question but 2 seasons ago when the road was shut and there were heroic amounts of snow we skied to the crag from the Hayfield. South Gully was avalanche prone so we abbed down from top of Shapeshifter, climbed that route then skied back out. From the top of the route back to the car took about 45mins. A most splendid day. Shapeshifter is probably only VI,8 and not hard 8 so definitely open to more people than the current grade suggests.

Thanks Dave/Nathan/Toby for all the insights. The Lochain/South Gully approach sounds like it is worth a go next time. We were looking to do a mixed route at the North End, hence the decision to go via Chalamain. We just got thwarted by unexpectedly deep powder and, although we hit the right point to contour into the crag and avoid the main boulder fields, we kept sinking in to hidden holes. Right decision to turn back on the day but will definitely pay another visit when the snow is firmer - looks like a great crag.     

Anyone know if it's possible to park at Rothiemurchus Lodge?

As far as I know the gate is locked at Loch Morlich so no. Unless you're staying there.

Just out of curiosity, when you skied in from the Hayfield did you skin up through the forest, or did you head up the road and then dive off higher up?

I stayed at Rothiemurchus Lodge in October - you don't have to be in the forces to stay there and I was there with a university group. It would reduce the walk in time significantly! The gate at Loch Morlich was locked - even if you do find it open then you risk it being locked behind you. Much of the woodland has been felled (part of a plan to regenerate Scots Pine in the area) - so it's perhaps not as pleasant a walk in as previously! 

Up the road to the car park then roughly up the way you'd go on foot.

Ta. From that end of the cliff back to the Hayfield in 45 minutes is tremendous!

It was absolutely the way to travel that day, no way we'd have got there on foot. We actually took the old road for a bit just after the Sugar Bowl to cut out the big hairpin past the Ciste car park. 

I'm trying to resist skiing, I've already got one expensive winter habit that I'm not very good at.

Sounds perfect for a ski approach to me

Did you ski in your climbing boots or climb in your ski boots. What's best.

Skied in ski boots and carried climbing boots. Trying to ski in climbing boots is useless, ski boots are OK climbing on ice but not grade VI snowed up rock.

TBH skiing in to routes in Scotland is rarely much advantage, it's certainly not worth buying skis for that purpose.

Climb in ski boots, they're fine up to like IV (and probably higher if you're better than me)

About three hours from Aviemore.

More sensibly, this is exactly why I never fancied trying the approach this way. Prior to actually climbing there, I'd figured I'd prefer to contour round from above, like it sounds you did, if approaching from the ski centre, but I think I'd favour going to the top of South Gully if visiting again.