gardyloo buttress ben nevis

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 jadeevans692 29 Jan 2020

Hi

I'm Looking at climbing Gardyloo buttress on Nevis in Feb just wondering ;

Is there an alternate decent other than tower gully ?

(the guide book said that this route can be prone for cornices?)

Any help is much appreciated. 

 UKH Forums 29 Jan 2020
This thread was started in the EXPEDITION & ALPINE forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

Winter Climbing
From Scottish gullies to Rjukan ice falls, this is the forum to discuss everything involved with winter climbing. Conditions, what's in and what's not, avalanche risk, recommended routes plus accounts of your exploits.

More Forum descriptions - http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/info/forums.html
In reply to jadeevans692:

One of the more popular descents is number 4 gully.... most guidebooks would describe this as an option but everything is dependant on conditions on the day. if in doubt there is always the pony track.

the approach to gardyloo area can be really bad for avalanche though. with regards to route choice and venue defo have a Plan B, C, D, E etc

 Simon Caldwell 29 Jan 2020
In reply to jadeevans692:

No 4 gully, Ledge Route, the head of Coire Leis, over CMD, down the pony track...

 Rimz 29 Jan 2020
In reply to jadeevans692:

Number 3 Gully an option too.

Comments / caveats as per previous posts.

 DaveHK 29 Jan 2020
In reply to jadeevans692:

> Is there an alternate decent other than tower gully ?

You can descend TG but some of the options outlined above are better being easier, quicker and spitting you out at better points on the mountain to continue your descent.

Also, what do you mean by Gardyloo Buttress? There are several routes on that buttress.

Post edited at 13:58
In reply to DaveHK:

I presumed he meant descend TG to get to the bottom of the buttress, if so walking to the top via the pony track may well be tedious but is quicker, i have done this numerous times, on one occasion we stormed to the top and down the gully thinking yes first on the route, only to find a team including Chris Bonington (with film crew) abbing in to the second pitch, they had helicoptered in!

"I'm doing Gardyloo buttress" will invariably mean by the line of least resistance, Smiths route by the variation i would have thought. Other good news is that it should be in by then.

 DaveHK 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> I presumed he meant descend TG to get to the bottom of the buttress, 

That wasn't clear was it?

In reply to DaveHK:

Which is why i am not  going to give advice directly to the OP, i presume using common sense.


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...