Chances of doing number 4 Gully, Aonach Dubh?

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 TheGeneralist 06 Nov 2022

I'm a moderate climber, and a shit ice climber.

For some reason the pictures of N4G in Cold Climbs really caught my eye. The writeup was great and I think I'm also attracted to the fact that it seems like a link to a bygone age, when stuff froze more often.

Not done any winter routes in years, but like to hope that one day I might manage this one.  Once I've retired to the border area I might have more time available and maybe, just maybe it might come into condition.

I've not been cognisant of conditions on routes like this for 20 years or more, so tell me.  Does it still come into condition occasionally?

 LakesWinter 06 Nov 2022
In reply to TheGeneralist:

Number 6 gully is the one in Cold Climbs iirc. It comes in fairly frequently - in 2018 it was in for around 3 months straight for example.

 65 06 Nov 2022
In reply to TheGeneralist:

The west face of Aonach Dubh gullies would have been good in 2020 during lockdown. Even Elliot's Downfall formed and was climbed by fortunate locals. No.6 is a great route.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

 Reminds me of  a great day had  linking up a series of easy classics back in the eighties as a  wide eyed apprentice, Number six gully  followed by Deep cut Chimney on Nam Beith  into  the  The Gash on Bidean  what a great day, think we pitched the cruxes.

To be fair this was back in the Mega freeze of 86.

As a route we thought it was overrated, one pitch really.  

Post edited at 22:39
 DaveHK 07 Nov 2022
In reply to TheGeneralist:

The logbooks on here suggest it's in fairly often. Not every season but it's not a rarity.

OP TheGeneralist 07 Nov 2022
In reply to LakesWinter:

> Number 6 gully is the one in Cold Climbs iirc.

Hah, says it all really. Getting my route name and grade mixed up!

> It comes in fairly frequently - in 2018 it was in for around 3 months straight for example.

> The logbooks on here suggest it's in fairly often. Not every season but it's not a rarity.

Ooh. Sounds promising. I did see a half dozen ascents logged on the system, which didn't seem like a lot, but then I have no idea what percentage log routes.

Best get the Koflachs repaired [ replaced?]

 Ean T 07 Nov 2022
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

Ha, I still remember that day too! 36 years ago. It was a cracker. Only way it could have been better was if we'd parapented back to the Clachaig.

OP TheGeneralist 07 Nov 2022
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

DQ: Are you the same Fergal as posted the Wainrights thread in STW?

 brianjcooper 08 Nov 2022
In reply to TheGeneralist:

No. 6 gully is a great route, but read the bit about possible collapse on page 120 of Cold Climbs. I remember hammering in a warthog half way up the near vertical section, which I believe is free standing, and felt the whole thing shudder. Gentle tapping after that. 

Have fun though.


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