Best month to climb the Aiguille Vert (Whymper)

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 Grimeski 06 Aug 2018

Whymper Couloir.

Its been on my list for a long time. Climbed in Chamonix during the summer (July/August) for the past 12 years but since its been in my reach its never been in condition. Looking to attempt a winter ascent this season but wondering which month would be best. I've read a mixed bag of opinions, some suggesting early Winter (~November) and other very late (April). Potential to skin in if it would suit better conditions on route. 

Any info is much appreciated! 

 John Cuthbert 07 Aug 2018
In reply to Grimeski:

mate, why do you want to climb the Whymper? Not only is it the worse route on Le Verte, it's also essentially a descent route these days.

It's a classic ski descent for most of the winter, with folk mostly climbing the Couturier on the North Face, since this is a much safer option.

It is also notoriously wind-blown, so avo prone.

Try modern routes like Vivagel on the N.face, or there are plenty of other couloirs in the MB range that are much more satisfying.Hope this helps,

John C

 

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 Misha 08 Aug 2018
In reply to Grimeski:

April to June. Skinning to the base in April and May, probably walking in June but depends on how snowy the season has been. Note John’s comment re skiers coming down!

November isn’t a time I’d choose for Alpien climbing. After the hot summer this year, the glaciers could be in a right state. Could be the worst of both worlds - some fresh snow to cover up the holes but not enough to fill them. 

The Couvercle winter hut is fairly decent. The main hut would be open in April. 


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