UKH

Hey there, 

I've been following the weather around the Lochaber area and was hoping to go and hit up some grade 1 routes (particularly North Ridge of Stob Ban & Devil’s Ridge and CMD Arete) in the coming weeks during good weather windows. Any advice regarding the current conditions of the routes would be appreciated!

Cheers!

im not in the area but given the weather and conditions, grade 1 ridges will probably be in the worst/hardest condition imaginable right now, just a shallow coating of hoar/verglass and/or unconsolidated powder. by no means out of the question but if your looking for an easy winter day your better of waiting for some neve to build. if your competent enough then fun could still be had right now however.

My son and I climbed Castle Ridge yesterday. A rock route currently with a dusting of snow up high and some avoidable ice. Once on the plateau area at the top of the route it was completely different. Lots of powder snow. Didn't need crampons on but we did find some frozen patches of snow crossing over to the tourist path and then compacted snow on this.

We spoke to two folks who had just done the CMD Arete too, so yes it is doable right now. Saturday we had walked up to Aonach Mor from the gondola valley station. Had hoped to do Golden Oldy but high winds closed the gondola. Didn't fancy the carry of all the kit from valley to route and down again.

Has been significant snowfall overnight last night and today to quite low level. So winter looks to be taking hold at the moment.

Get out soon if you can while it lasts but watch the forecasts closely. Weather was quite benign this weekend for Scotland but as you know it often isn't.

Have fun if you get out and stay safe.

Theres a webcam at the cic hut pointing at the north face which may be of use. 

https://www.smc.org.uk/cicwebcam/cic_weather