UKH

Hi,

I have a pair of Scrapa Charmoz B2 boots which I have used for about four or five years now, primarily for Scottish Winter walks, Scottish Climbing (have used them up to grade 4) and Alps.

For the coming winter season I'm looking for something a bit stiffer, to keep my feet a bit warmer at belays and make life a bit easier with less bendiness.  I would consider boots with built in gaiters too as those look pretty handy (I don't bother with gators of any sort these days).

What are people's suggestions to try?

Thanks,

You can't go wrong with the Nepals, bit of a classic. 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/nepal-top-extreme-mountaineering-boots-yellow-i...

I've had mine for years and are perfect for Scottish winter and summer Alpine stuff - great boots. 

You most certainly can! HarrisonConnie has Scarpas, a wide forefoot high volume fit, whereas LaSportiva are narrow forefoot low volume fit.  HarrisonConnie may well find LaSportivas are far from right for his/her feet.

Fit has to be the most important criteria.  Though as a word of caution the Napal’s being sold by Go/ Decathlon are the non goretex version in some cases.  Might be quite easy to get caught out if you were expecting full waterproof.  I have quite high volume troll feet but seem to get on ok with Sportiva Napal Cubes.  

While I am sure you are right, I somehow manage to fit in both La Sportiva Nepal Extreme and Scarpa Charmoz OD. These are the only two winter boots I have. 

Mind you, I rarely have problems with any boots/shoes, so I don't know what type of my feet are. It might as well just be straight in the middle. 

Id suggest Scarpa Phantom Guides for good boots with built in gaiters. 

I personally (and not too narrow a foot) have a pair of sportiva Nepal tops. The leather ones. Bombproof and super confortable. And dead warm too, even on Belays. 

Obvious statement warning - try a few on and find what works for you. 

I've wide feet and have Charmoz and Nepals (non gtx, never a problem for me) but for harder climbing Phantom Techs that are great, downside is the very thin, fast wearing sole but apparently they can be resoled with something similar to the original Phantom guide sole. I'd also look at the Sportiva G2 SM depending upon the conditions you'll use them - the G2 are slightly heavier and warmer, somewhere between the Phantom Tech and Phantom 6000 (I've got these too and perhaps a little too heavy and lacking in feedback for serious climbing )

Best,

S

Simply a suggestion to check them out - obviously if they don't fit then they will be no good (bit of a no-brainer really).  

I don't actually, not for some time now.

Harrison would have been fine  

It's worth noting that the standard Nepal's from decathlon are not the Gore-tex ones, If this is an issue for you then definitely check out the Nepal Cubes. I find the biggest problem with my Nepal's is sweaty feet. not getting wet from the outside. 

As for the Scarpa Phantom Guides, these aren't sold anymore and have been replaced with the Scarpa Phantom Techs which have been reported to have very fast wearing soles. 

Scarpa Vega's meet all these criteria

Perhaps if you're planning a climb in the 1980's :P 

I once witnessed a similar plastic boot disintegrate into a million small pieces on a walk in, the poor soul was left walking back to the car in his inner boots! - I appreciate this was probably a one off but the horror remains fresh in my mind... 

Really? Did you see it or just regurgitating an urban myth?

Yes, there were instances of plastic boots disintegrating, however there are also instances of other boots breaking / falling apart.

As for the 80's, hmm, still Vega's at the CIC hut earlier this year  

(also dashtein mitts but that's for another thread)

I did actually see it with my very own eyes, yes! 

I will admit that they were very old and probably hadn't been used since the 80's. 

I once wore a pair of plastic hire boots on a 2 day winter skills course many years ago, vouching I would never again traumatize my feet with such an experience. 

Leather boots are an absolute God send and you could easily find an equivalent leather boot to the Vega that would give you much more comfort and control. 

The Scarpa Vegas, singlefeetingly, almost stopped my main climbing partner from going out in winter. Fit wasn't right and it crippled him entirely. I heard a few complaints from a few folks and I am left wondering what was the vegas fit?

I have had 2 pairs of Scarpa Freneys for the last 13 years...going strong!

I'm not sure what I'll be going for. Boots are so expensive now! I'll be sure to find a good fit though!