Just for fun, and because I don't think I'll get to the Eiger any time soon ( or be up for it if I did!..) which Scottish climbs would you say are most like particular Nordwand pitches?
5 laps of the Long Climb on the Ben in poor conditions (very wet and badly frozen). Get your mates to stand on top chucking buckets of mixed scree down.
Excellent! I thought the Orion Face might figure, maybe bits of Crab Crawl on Meagaidh too?
For anyone who's been there were there sections of " This reminds me of...."? Or afterwards, on a route at home, bits that reminded you of some of the Eiger's famous pitches?
I suspect the lack of responses may reflect the relative lack of participants on this forum who've done the Eiger N face, but I'm interested in what those who've experienced it come up with.
This article https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/north_face_of_the_eiger_-_1938_route-3652 gave scottish grades and likened The Ice Hose in good conditions to green gully
You would need cow bells ringing. You would need a dark face and a contrasting alpine summer light. You would need the railway line clanking away and a buzz of aeroplanes and helicopters. More rocks whizzing by. A vast icefield to cross and limestone with crap gear. A bigger sense of foreboding and less wind, probably no spindrift. Swiss chocolate in your pockets instead of malt loaf. Longer days, shorter nights.
Think Shadbolt's Chimney next to Ossian' s Cave , a climb of distinct character, rotten ledges, places to avoid, snowy ampitheatres, overhanging barriers. Think of those Scottish routes with a dagger after them. Not because the Eiger Nordwand lacks grading information but because the Mordwand is mostly in the head. Every pitch above the difficult crack has history. Kurz, Corti, Sedlmayer; Wyss and Gonda, Nothdurft and Mayer, Derungs and Mayr, Brewster and Harlin - the pitches tick by.
Maybe the Clachaig Gully in atrocious conditions is your best bet. Not to be underestimated. Not easy to protect. The grade is for dry conditions. Loose and dangerous. Whilst underneath, a car purrs by and the pissed up drinkers can watch your headtorches settle down for the night.
Great stuff. I've had to ditch a rucksack going off route on the way up to Ossian's Cave and I've slept in the Clachaig Gully under the red chimney pitch (IIRC) so your evocative description builds a tangible picture. Thanks!
Die Riesenwand on Beinn Bhan. Lots of extreme ramp shuffling with the odd engaging pitch and questionable belays - don't forget your pitons!
Perhaps Goucho could advise ?
Good description, an eye opener
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