In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:
One of the best pieces of advice I had was "don't chase grades, let them come to you".
This is very applicable in the mid grade range, where things can get quite dangerous but also in the higher grades which are generally safer mixed routes (yeah shoot me down). Finding yourself out of your depth and having to aid out or escape in a storm is at best unpleasant.
Sadly this means saving your hard pushes for rare days when the crags are over populated.