CRAG NOTES: North of the Wall at Crag Lough

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In this month's Crag Notes, Peter Goulding heads North of the Wall in Northumberland, to Crag Lough. "There's plenty there, especially in mid or lower grades, but the North facing location, loneliness, and scratchy plants give it a feeling of entry-level adventure. It is a taste of the esoteric, without needing an actual machete."

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 Ben_Climber 30 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I spent a few days here over the summer and absolutely loved the place. It really is amazing how busy the car park and surrounding area gets but you are almost always alone at the base of the crag. I think we spotted 2 other parties climbing over a few trips there this summer. Some great routes as well! Well worth a visit.

In reply to Ben_Climber:

> I spent a few days here over the summer and absolutely loved the place. It really is amazing how busy the car park and surrounding area gets but you are almost always alone at the base of the crag. I think we spotted 2 other parties climbing over a few trips there this summer. Some great routes as well! Well worth a visit.

I've never made it, but am definitely inspired to after reading this...although maybe not for the parking...

 Lankyman 30 Nov 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I used to really like the place when I lived close enough for Peel Crag to be an evening jaunt (summer!). Lots of mileage to be had mostly on the lower and middle grades. If you like the Roman elements, there's lots to see and do in the area. You can actually spot a Roman swastika on one of the stones of the Wall above Peel, if the grass hasn't grown too long and you look carefully and closely.

 DaveHK 30 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I visited here and Peel Crag for the first time this summer having thought about it off and on for years. I was really impressed, I reckon it's one of the best S-VS crags in the country. The routes at those grades are quality, decent lengths and follow really strong lines something routes at that grade often lack.

Not a great deal to do above E1 but Whinstone Churchill is well worth seeking out at E2, excellent, varied, well protected climbing.

Post edited at 12:43

 TomYoung 30 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Had my first day of outdoor climbing at Crag Lough and the neighbouring Peel, in something like mid September, and got rather wet and cold. Part of me wonders why I ever went back after that...

The Crag Lough microclimate is an ever popular joke within my group of mates; not wanting to risk wet sandstone we'd head to Once Brewed and seemingly always end up shivering at the bottom of the crag no matter what time of year. Great on a hot summer's day though, rare as they may be :P

Post edited at 13:19
 climberchristy 30 Nov 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

> Not a great deal to do above E1 but Whinstone Churchill is well worth seeking out at E2, excellent, varied, well protected climbing.

Agree with both parts of this sentence. I'd also add that this route is well worth doing tooImpossible Slab (E3 5c)

Also, neighbouring Peel Crag has some good low Es. Rock Island LIne (E1 5b) is especially good and I also cleaned up (2020) and really enjoyed Ritual (E4 6a)

Removed User 30 Nov 2021
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I had a exceptional day out that lives in the memory. It had all the components: a good mate I hadn't climbed with for a while, interesting rock (soapy weirdly sloping holds?) that focussed the mind, several classic routes ticked off, crag swag (friend 0.5) and real ale afterwards.

I would say the photos in the article could win an award for least inspiring crag shots ever though!

A look through these would better serve the article https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/crag_lough-828/#photos

Post edited at 13:37
 Lankyman 30 Nov 2021
In reply to climberchristy:

> I also cleaned up (2020) and really enjoyed Ritual (E4 6a)

When I was on the crux of this I became the subject of discussion by an 'expert' (he'd probably seen it on the telly). He told his doting associates that climbing wasn't as hard as it looks and there were big things to get hold of. At the time, my face was pressed against the wall and there weren't any 'big things' to get hold of. Otherwise, I'd have turned round and put him right ...

 climberchristy 30 Nov 2021
In reply to Lankyman:

Yeh if I remember correctly there are not many 'big things' to hold on the crux of this route! 

 airborne 30 Nov 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Been a couple of times; amazingly it's only an hour from Kendal. Actually quicker to get on this than many Langdale crags. But it's quite a unique experience...

 Peter Goulding 01 Dec 2021
In reply to Lankyman:

Where's the Roman swastika? I'm well interested.

 Lankyman 01 Dec 2021
In reply to Peter Goulding:

> Where's the Roman swastika? I'm well interested.

It's low down on the inside/south side of the wall, towards the east end of Peel Crags. It's a few years since I last saw it but I think it's shortly before the crest of the ridge dips down as it heads towards Crag Lough. If you keep scanning the lower courses you'll see it, unless the grass has grown. Apparently, the Romans regarded the swastika as a good luck symbol. There are also carved willies on the stretch immediately east of Birdoswald fort.

 Peter Goulding 02 Dec 2021
In reply to Lankyman:

Nice one, something to look for next time. Cheers.

 Root1 02 Dec 2021
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

There are some great routes on Crag Lough. Main wall is a classic. Hadrians Buttress, and Crystal is one of the best HVS routes around. Chariot Race isn't bad too.

1
 David Cowley 30 Dec 2021
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Probably my most frequented local crag  some classic routes. Pinnacle face is my fave. Tigers overhang as well. See some beautiful sunsets followed by a pint in twice brewed

I have however witnessed people not finding any anchors and dropping slings over the the top of hadrians wall or placing cams in the cracks on the wall. They got a stern telling off from me after an initial moment of shock from me


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