NEW ARTICLE: Inside the Tweeds of a Victorian Gentleman Climber

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 UKC Articles 16 Oct 2012
Alex climbing Ben Lui in January 2011, 2 kb'Write what you know' is standard advice for budding authors, so to prepare for a mountain novel set in the 19th Century Alex Roddie didn't think background reading was research enough; he'd have to learn to climb like a Victorian too - hobnails, home-made ice axe and all.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5011
 Only a hill 16 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:
If anyone wants to know more, loads of my original articles on the experiment can be found over on Glencoe Mountaineer:
http://glencoemountaineer.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/The%20Raeburn%20Proje...
 Mal Grey 16 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Interesting, thank you.

The first ice axe I used was an old war department one my dad had hoarded away from somewhere or other, I seem to remember it was 85cm. It seemed ridiculously long at the time, but that's because I was trying to use it like a more modern axe, after reading modern text books. The pick was barely curved at all either. Wonder if my dad still has it.

 Mal Grey 16 Oct 2012
In reply to Mal Grey:

Meant to say this was in the '80s, I'm not THAT old...

 Only a hill 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Mal Grey:
It's got to be said, I love using a longer axe and I think they have many advantages on certain terrain. Even when I use modern gear nowadays I'm never comfortable climbing with an axe shorter than 65cm (unless it's a fully technical ice or mixed climb with little in the way of 'mountaineering' terrain). You can use a long axe short, but you can't use a short axe long...
 Roberttaylor 18 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: http://www.ebooksread.com/authors-eng/francis-henry-gribble/the-story-of-al...

Probably old news to you but this is well worth a read...

R
 Only a hill 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Not actually come across that one before ... thanks for the link!
 pneame 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Roberttaylor:

Thanks for posting. There are some great pictures in that - I'll enjoy reading.

And nice article Alex - it is nice to step back and think. I've never found it to be less than fantastic doing the serious old classics, such as those around Ogwen - Glyder Fach and the upper cliff of Glyder Fawr, for example. Their low popularity in the modern world makes it easy to feel like a pioneer, even if really we aren't.
 Only a hill 18 Oct 2012
In reply to pneame:
Exactly how I feel when climbing with the old gear too. It really opens your eyes and makes you realise how little you actually need when climbing in winter.

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