Egerton Quarry:
An extensive quarry bowl containing 175 varied routes of all orientations facing into the tree filled bottom. Easily accessible (1 1/4 hours from Sheffield and 2 minutes walk), with classic quarried grit routes from VS upwards, it's sheltered location would make a particularly good choice on blustery days, although many of the best areas do dry quickly after rain.
Crag:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/craginfo.html?id=326
Guidebook:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/bookinfo.html?id=27
Streetmap:
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=371422&y=414797&z=3&sv=...
The Clean-up operation:
8th May 2004, organised by Les Ainsworth. Unfortunately and for no good reason, Egerton had fallen into relative neglect, paths had been obscured by brambles and some routes had got vegetated through lack of attention. Some of this has now been rectified to help expose the quality climbing on offer. Activities I noticed:
(Participants please post and highlight what else you did)
Paths above and below the Cholera and Lonely areas (if not many more) were cleared, exposing good mid-extreme grade climbs.
Litter was cleared up.
Trees and brambles were cut back.
Les and Squeak excavated huge grass ledges of the Amphitheatre (this area will need more serious cleaning though).
Kevin Stephens cleaned a good looking E2 and E3, reporting the E2 looked as good as Supercrack in Wilton but easier (for those who don't know, Supercrack is a superb finger crack that makes Regent Street look like a polished ramble).
High quality, clean, mid-grade routes:
This is what I did so I recommend these absolutely. Please, please, take time away from Burbage Popular End, explore a bit further afield, and treat yourself to some great mid-grade wall/crack climbing. Egerton needs traffic to keep the high quality climbing accessible to all, and if it falls into neglect again it will be YOUR fault for letting it happen.
Anyway, try these routes on Wood Buttress, they have been properly cleaned i.e. not a quick whisk with a toothbrush, but heathery finishes landscaped into amenable jugs, any grass and earth gouged off ledges, cracks scraped clean, all holds thoroughly brushed - they were good before as I can report from doing Gallows Pole....they're probably worth a star extra now:
Zoot Chute VS 4b ** - a solid groove leading to a bolder finish on good holds, good line and good position.
I Shot Jason King E5 6a ** (maybe ***?)- a superb and very bold arete....there are holds up there....but not gear =). Great line. (This and The Reaper next door should still have a quick brush from your mate on abseil before the onsight, the grass has gone but there is a little bit of lichen.)
Confusion E3 5c ** (was no stars) - great looking combination of wall climbing and a thin crack gained by a delicate traverse.
Ten Minutes Before The Worm VS 4c ** (was*) - great looking combination of steady crack climbing gained by a bold but steady traverse. Parallels Confusion in an adventurous way.
Lubalin E2 5b ** (was *) - great looking steady wall climbing on hidden holds with just enough gear.
God Save The Queen HVS 5a ** (was *) - good looking and varied bold wall climbing up a occasional crack system, strong line.
Gallows Pole HVS 5a *** (was **) - as good an HVS wall climb as you'll find anywhere, easy but bold climbing to gain a steady crack with a delightful committing finish.
Finally:
Other participants and Lancs climbers, please post what you did, highlight routes people should do, and keep bumping this up (I had considered a Premier Post but I don't think it's fair to fork out £20 to announce a non-commercial service).