UKC

The BMC now has more details on the proposed extension of the climbing season at Cheddar Gorge. If successful, this should open up the main Gorge cliffs which have been subjected to Winter-only access for years. The cold north-facing walls have never seen as much traffic as they deserve under the current limiting restrictions. A decision is expected within several weeks.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/news_det.asp?item_id=689

UKC News - http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to UKC News:

Will the 'summer' routes be documented correctly in the new CC Avon and Cheddar guide or has that already gone to the printers? ie which routes have been retro'd/ had lower offs added/ cleaned up?

In reply to tobyfk:that's already gone to the printers I'm afraid

In reply to cornishben:

but no doubt the CC will make a free PDF update available on their website ?

In reply to tobyfk: Current proposal as set out on bmc site is a small charge for the update. Guide had already gone through proof setting when cheddar project started and therefore I understand from Martin Crocker that CC decision was to run with getting it onto the shelves regardless of whether Cheddar summer access was permitted-after all, cheddar is only one part of the absolutely fantastic varied climbing on offer in the bristol and mendip area which will be in the guide!

In reply to UKC News:

After reading that and Martin Croker's bit in Summit, I am left non the wiser as to whether there are any routes I can aspire to in the list !

Nevertheless, its a good effort all round - it shows that it doesn't always need 'direct action' to improve access as some would maintain.

In reply to Matt Ward:

you sound like you're trying to sell the place...

In reply to Ian Hill: that's an interesting and timely comment given that last Thursday's Cheddar and Westonzoyderland Gazette reported that a number of high net worth Russian and Arab investors had been seen visiting the gorge recently and it was suggested they might buy it-they were looking to turn it into Britain's answer to Kalymnos and Font rolled into one. Hopefully this wouldn't impact on the summer access potential.

In reply to Matt Ward: maybe they'll also go ahead with the plan to close it to traffic as well as importing all the gritstone boulders as their business plan shows?

In reply to Matt Ward:
Are you having sleepless nights over your guilt at being involved in bolting a natural limestone trad crag?

In reply to John Alcock: No-neither sleepless nights nor a sense of guilt.

Actually the routes which have been bolted have been with consent of first ascensionists / feedback from active climbers in an area which isn't wholly a natural limestone crag nor a wholly trad crag. There are far more good and recleaned trad routes to go at.
PS
It'll save that long drive to Portland that you, Lorne and other Bristol-based sport climbers make. Think of that for an environmentally friendly justification for bolting-and it's kind on your wallet so not only can the petrol saved be reinvested in the bolt fund but you could use the time saved to climb recleaned routes once summer access has been approved by Cheddar Show Caves / help clean others.

In reply to Matt Ward: I'll sell the tickets and organise the ring, just as long as you and John will wear the gloves!?

In reply to Matt Ward:

Hey Matt ... what does this mean (from the BMC website):

If the Proposal is approved and you climb in Cheddar Gorge outside winter you will need a copy of both The Climbers' Club Guidebook and the photo-topo (photo-copies unnacceptable).

Is this a condition of access and will the CC be stationing guidebook inspectors? "Your original edition South West Climbs won't do sir, would you kindly vacate the crag..."

In reply to tobyfk:

Photo Topo - where will that come from ??

How can you get it or does it come with the guide. Its not like the swanage "companion topo" where u send off to someones house is it??