The same question has been asked on other UKC threads but, given how fast alpine conditions are changing year-to-year, I figured I'd ask it again.
I'm going to Chamonix in late March for my first stab at winter alpinism. I can lead IV, 6 on mixed routes in the northern coires and have a led a couple V ice routes on the Ben. I appreciate that alpine routes are more to do with moving fast than climbing hard. I reckon I'm pretty quick on ground that is Scottish Tech 5, which according to some is roughly M4. I can ski a red, but its ugly to watch and I often fall over. I've heard falling over is a bad idea if you're potentially skiing on a crevasse snow-bridge. I'm trying to make a ticklist to avoid too much faffing once we get there.
My requirements are:
- Doable in a day from Cham
- Approachable by foot/snowshoe or easy skiing
- Steps of up to Scottish V ice or IV mixed, but not sustained for 200m+. If the route is long & sustained, then Scottish III
Any suggestions?
This UKC article is very good, although I worry that a lot of the climbs may be at my limit when in proper condition and I expect lean conditions, which will surely make everything harder.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/10_routes_to_climb_in_cham...