Winter Chamonix around Scottish IV to V

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 Isaac_Blanc 12 Mar 2023

The same question has been asked on other UKC threads but, given how fast alpine conditions are changing year-to-year, I figured I'd ask it again.

I'm going to Chamonix in late March for my first stab at winter alpinism. I can lead IV, 6 on mixed routes in the northern coires and have a led a couple V ice routes on the Ben. I appreciate that alpine routes are more to do with moving fast than climbing hard. I reckon I'm pretty quick on ground that is Scottish Tech 5, which according to some is roughly M4. I can ski a red, but its ugly to watch and I often fall over. I've heard falling over is a bad idea if you're potentially skiing on a crevasse snow-bridge. I'm trying to make a ticklist to avoid too much faffing once we get there.

My requirements are:

  • Doable in a day from Cham
  • Approachable by foot/snowshoe or easy skiing
  • Steps of up to Scottish V ice or IV mixed, but not sustained for 200m+. If the route is long & sustained, then Scottish III

Any suggestions?

This UKC article is very good, although I worry that a lot of the climbs may be at my limit when in proper condition and I expect lean conditions, which will surely make everything harder.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/10_routes_to_climb_in_cham...

 Jeff Ingman 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Isaac_Blanc:

I've done 8 of the routes on Jack's excellent list and would suggest an easy start on the Chere couloir followed by the Frendo Ravanel. This should allow you to assess conditions and what level of technical difficulty you can transfer from your Scottish experience.

Petit Viking on the Pre de Bar is technically easy provided you can get across the shrund, but the approach is long and requires good conditions for ski or snow shoe. Maybe too much in a day but you can decide that.

Hope you enjoy the trip!

 Webster 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Isaac_Blanc:

It is worth knowing that the top cable car at grands montets doesnt exist any more... so any of the routes in that area in Jacks list are no longer quite so simple to approach...

Petit viking is a straightforward route, but even if the bergschrund is well filled in, it is the rock band below the route proper which is the problem. It is only about 12m and wasnt there only a few years ago, but will get bigger year on year now, and poses problems significantly harder than anything you will actually find on the route!

it goes without saying that conditions and weather can vary wildly, dont be surprised if you find summer alpine conditions this march... we have had 20deg in the lower valley today. people were approaching routes without skis or snow shoes for much of february this year.

OP Isaac_Blanc 16 Mar 2023

Thank you both for the replies! That should get me started


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