UKH

Fitting an intermediate niche between DMM's existing ice axes, the Vertex is technically capable on lower grade climbs, yet not too souped-up for walking terrain. Dan Bailey is smitten by this versatile, modular lightweight.

Read more

Nice review, thanks. Looks perfect for moderate-mid alpine where a second technical tool might be desirable for steeper sections - two of these would be like 900g instead of e.g. a Raptor and an Apex which is probably closing in on 1.3-1.4kg. 

I've a question Dan - 
I know you have said you are happy with 2x 50cm. Any thoughts on taking an adze in 55cm and a hammer in 50cm? Thinking again about trips that might be predominantly single axe (so taking an adze at standard mountaineering length for someone around 180cm give or take), and then a shorter hammer for anticipated technical/two axe sections? 

I did try and buy a pair a couple of months ago but was told they were delayed due to an issue with the triggers, I can see they have changed since the earlier images, they look a lot more substantial.

I would have like to buy DMM but alas I needed a pair for a trip and ended up with North Machine Carbons which are wonderful but a somewhat different beast (with a price tag to boot). Maybe these for the other half if I can convince her of the manifest joys of Scottish winter outings....

Thanks! I review a lot of stuff but it's still great when it's something I really love.

Can see the Vertex being a brilliant alpine tool. For moderate terrain a pair of them would seem like a better option than a mismatched Raptor/Apex, and a lot lighter as you say.

There'd be nothing stopping you getting a 55cm adze and a 50cm hammer. For one-axe ground the 55cm may be slightly better for folk of around our height (I'm just a bit taller), but I've been fine with 50cm so far. I do tend to prefer a shorter axe for everything: on easier angles a pole for support in one hand and the axe in the other; then when the slope steepens, a shorter axe in the uphill hand is fine.

Once you're using both I'd personally prefer to climb on an equal-length pair, and for that 50cm wins. But if you go 55-50, the length and weight difference isn't going to be great, and you'd at least have something with the same geometry in each hand.

I don't imagine there's a definitive answer on this, just some (mostly minor) pros and cons, and personal preference.    

Awesome, thanks Dan. Yes that's the trade-off I'm thinking through... 55cm for walking is pretty much perfect for me and all things considered that would probably still be the primary mode of use in the Alps at my sort of punter level... there seems to be a growing scenario where 'steep snow/one axe/ slopes are now more like 'moderate angle ice and actually two tools might be more comfortable than not in certain circumstances'... Maudit shoulder, middle of the Rochefort, potentially the Forbes or Kuffner (although not been there). Stuff where you could/should/used to be able to get by with one axe but now might be more comfortable with two, but not worth carrying a spare full tech axe for...

Food for thought anyway.

You might want to consider the standard North Machine for the missus - they place nearly as well as the carbons and are only about 20 grammes heavier and a lot less dough. I was comfortably climbing WI4 with them while away in Italy earlier in the month.

Looks like you could DIY some pick weights onto the hole in the pick in order to give them a bit more "oomph" on hard ice too, albeit with a marginal weight penalty. 

I've had a feel of them in the shop and they seem like well built tools and will do the winter walker/scrambler/occasional climber really well. 

It's a petzl sum tec.  I love my sum tec, although have added pick weights to give it more weight when climbing with it.

Hi, I am 6ft and assumed 55cm would be better for me. I had been looking at Sum'Tec which only come in 55cm and figured I would not be fretting about it if I had gone with those. However after reading this review decided to order both pairs to compare.

There is a significant difference in swing between the two and even after moving the sliding rest up on the 55cm it didn't feel as good. I don't think the loss of 5cm when plunging would be as significant as difference in handling when climbing so kept the pair of 50cm, which also shaved a bit off the weight.

At the end of the day I really wanted a lightweight versatile pair of tools not another walking axe and like Dan use one pole + axe when needed.

I guess the only way to be sure what works for you is to try both. In my case spending a few quid on return postage for the pair I am not keeping was worthwhile as my original assumptions about what would work best for me were wrong.

I wont get to use them in anger until next winter but first impressions are good, I am very happy with them. 

The only reason not to replace my sumtecs with these is that they share picks with nomics, which I love. If you were bought into the DMM system and had a pair of switches they'd be ace. Not sure I'd buy an apex now tho.

Also i'm not sure they replace my pair of gullys either. 

Worth noting that the Vertex and Apex/Switch picks are not compatible as far as I'm aware. Not sure of the head geometry so I can't compare but there has been no mention or advertisement of their compatibility that I've seen.

It would be interesting if this changes in future or if DMM has plans to also re-vamp their more technical axes.

That's a really useful post, thank you. I'm not buying just yet but I will be sure to have a play before comitting if/when the time comes.

That's right: not compatible. I asked them for this review