UKH

Hi, what would be a good first Scottish winter route for me as a lead and my wife's first winter route? Was thinking Jacob's ladder, Coire an t - Sneachda?

Any recommendations would be really appreciated.. 

Thanks  

Here are a couple low grade routes I've done which I think are considered good beginner's routes...

East: Fiacaill Ridge (II)

West: Dorsal Arête (Winter) (II)

To state the obvious, because it can't be over-stated, a sensible winter route would be one that's in good condition for climbing and low avalanche/cornice collapse risk on the day. Things vary day by day.

Jacob's Ladder is straightforward for the grade, and rock protection should usually be available, so yes it's a good one to aim for in your circumstances - in principle. Climb it as a proper pitched route, there'll often be belay ledges ready-stamped-out for you. But only go near it if you're sure of snow conditions; like any easy snow gully it could be very dodgy in some conditions.

A little bit alarming to think of this being your first winter lead, taking your wife on her first ever winter route. That's arguably one too many firsts. But I don't want to come across as nannying since everyone has to start somewhere.

Fiacaill Ridge a good suggestion from JLS, since it's climbable at variety of grades depending on the line you take, and is not exposed to cornices and avalanche in the same way as nearby snow gullies can be. Though it is airy in a way that Jacob's Ladder isn't. Join the queue. 

I did Jacob's Ladder in November about 30 years ago (where did the years go!), when it was pure water ice except the very top. From memory there was no snow below it really either. Great fun, but pretty consequential as a result we didn't have any ice screws then, so had to relay on rock gear at the edge. In retrospect it could have probably been graded that day something like III,2 or something. Just to reinforce to the OP how different routes can be on different days/seasons.  

It's the steepest and most sustained grade 1 that I've ever done.

The Runnel and Goat Track gully are probably better bets, conditions dependent obviously.

The coire is a good place to start, with plenty of options to avoid the crowds, which are potentially the greatest danger. Presuming you are confident about getting off the plateau afterward.

Yeah I was thinking of those 2 also!

Thanks

Maybe depends on how much winter mountaineering experience you both have as grade I ground often gets covered anyway when doing hills. There's much better options than stuff in Sneachda, e.g. Beinn Alligin traverse, Liathath traverse, Beinn Eighe traverse, Carn Mor Dearg onto the Ben etc...

Thanks for your reply Dan 👍 My mistake in regards to the conditions & Avalanche risk!

100% all that will be considered before even thinking about getting on it and any other route for that matter!

I have a few Scottish / Alps big day experiences, with guides also have been climbing 20 + years with my wife!

That said I'm not as experienced in winter as with rock and any help/suggestions are very welcome! Just a little confused with the to many firsts comment, yet you say it would be good in our circumstances. 

My wife's first E1 lead was Long Tall Sally and I wouldn't recommend that as a first E1 🤷‍♂️ 

This is why I was asking, given the conditions are good on the day..

Thanks again  👍

West coast options could be Ledge Route on Ben Nevis. If conditions are ok. Pretty atmospheric and some good views if it's clear but does pass by some serious terrain.

I have been in the same position. a route you know or are confident about would be preferred.

As others have said there’s much better ‘routes’ to be had just bagging a Munro or two. In the right conditions.

If you’re sticking with the northern corries agree The Runnel is much more interesting and not that much harder. That said my first ‘route’ was probably Central Gulley on Ben Lui. Brings you out right at the summit. A brilliant route, and far more memorable than Aladdins Couloir.

If your wife can lead E1 she will find that useful on Dorsal Arete.........it has one move up a corner that is pretty hard for grade 2 and poor / no belay on the ledge above.

One of the direct starts improves the route.

It's entertaining but I'm not sure the OP is looking for a IV,5 just yet!

In you want to take your time and not feel pressured by the presence of other folk on popular routes, there are a couple of useful Grade 1 lines in Coire an t - Sneachda: the S-shaped line of least resistance about 1/3 of the way between Jacob's Ladder and Alladin's Couloir, and the shallow gully just right of the Goat Track 0.5 Gully (I) (easy angled but with optional steeper finishes on the left wall). 

I thought it was called 0.5 because it wasn't grade I and therefore a walk rather than a climb. 😀

That is indeed how it acquired its name. It's certainly low in the grade / borderline steep walking by the easiest line, but harder variations are possible and it is a good place to practise rope management, stance and belay construction etc. 

^^

The left hand route is barely III.  Once the short traverse is done it's straight forward.