Picos de Europa guide book / route recommendation please

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 Exile 28 Oct 2022

I am hoping to climb big rock routes in the Picos de Europa next Summer. I have a good guide book for Naranjo de Bulnes, but can find precious little on other routes in the area. Can anybody give any route recommendations and / or recommend a guide book newer than the Robin Walker one. 

Many thanks. 

 Moacs 28 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

You want Cordillera Cantabrica Escalades Selectas by Miguel Adrados

 ebdon 29 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

I had a great trip this year and used the desnivel ones I.e. https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Carlos-Lamoile-Mart%C3%ADnez/dp/8498292727

In spanish but great topos and easy to translate.

For single pitch sport the roche verde guide is also excellent. It was a great area I wish I had discovered sooner.

Post edited at 01:10
 tew 29 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

I've just been researching the same question for a trip next year. When are you heading out there?

OP Exile 29 Oct 2022
In reply to Moacs:

Great. Thanks. Any non NDB recommendations up to E2 ish? 

OP Exile 29 Oct 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Hi. What sort of grades toes this guide cover. We'd be looking for VS to E2 sort of routes. Any recommendations? 

I've got the Roche Verde Guide thanks.

OP Exile 29 Oct 2022
In reply to tew:

We'll be heading out for a week between mid July and mid August. 

 ebdon 29 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

Those ones are the 'easy' routes, prob max HVS but plenty to go at a VS (allthough applying UK trad grades to some of these routes which are massive is a bit tricky). I think there is something similar for harder routes but I was generally doing easier things with my wife. 

We did the easy route on the Naranja which I thought was about VS max but other opinions think easier. It's an amazing mountain with great looking routes at all grades, you should definitely make a route here a priority.

We also climbed La Alfonsada (D) whitch was ace. Prob VSish. There were equally good harder routes on the same peak. Easy descent too.

The water worn limestone can be a bit odd to climb in places and tricky to protect, worth getting to know before jumping on somthing at your max.

Post edited at 11:52
 steveb2006 29 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

I think they are in the Robin Walker guidebook but the routes on Pena de Fresnidiello are a good 'warm up'/ training before doing the bigger routes on the Naranjo.  Pretty big but quiet easy access and not too hard. Done all 3 in the Walker guide.

 Moacs 29 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

That's a rather big question as the guidebook covers a big area and is 500 A5 pages of topos!

Cueto Agero is good 

Castro Candillejas 

There are some great routes to summits if you walk in to Urriellu from the south 

Torres de los horcados rojos 

Along the crests madejuno to tiro llago also

The guide is in Spanish and not always the easiest to find your way around, but there's absolutely tons of long trad routes in there

 Juan S 01 Nov 2022
In reply to Exile:

Check out the S face of Peña Santa de Castilla. Haven't climbed it myself yet, but looks awesome from the base. Long approach so usually done with a bivvy at the base

> Great. Thanks. Any non NDB recommendations up to E2 ish? 

OP Exile 02 Nov 2022
In reply to Juan S:

Sounds like a great adventure. Thanks for pointing this out.

I'm awaiting the arrival of a couple of guide books so hopefully it will be in one of them. 

 Eciton 02 Nov 2022
In reply to Exile:

two other guidebooks that might be useful:

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/libros/escalada-en-roca-en-los-picos-de-eu...

https://www.desnivel.com/cultura/cultura-libros/cabrales-la-esencia-de-la-e...

There are quite a bit arround picos de Europa as well which you will find some in Cordillera Cantabrica guidebook. You can buy this in the many villages around Picos. I think it is impossible to find it online.

If it is the first time you go there just do the most recommended ones as they are great. A few highlights:

- Murciana in Naranjo del Bulnes (west face): a bit a aid climbing for the crux pitch but the rest goes around 6a/+

- Amistad del diablo in Naranjo del Bulnes (East face) (V+)

- El rojo libanes in Horcados Rojos (6b+)

A small note, summer can be very hot, even in northern Spain. Outside of Picos range you will be a bit too low in altitude (for my taste at least) to be able to have fun climbing in the sun. Even up high can be a bit too hot! An example: the main route in Cueto Aguero just outside of La Hermida gorge is great but not to be done in a hot clear day in summer!

A recommendation, in case you are into this kind of things. A great thing to do in Picos is to mix between trekking and climbing. Pack your rucksack for 5-6 days walk to some hut (sleep there or in a tent), climb a route there in move the next day and climbing in another area. You get to know Picos quite well and each corner has its delights. 


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