Petzl Nomic Long Term Durability

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 Nathan Adam 21 Oct 2022

Has anyone managed to put the updated model through its paces for a lot of Scottish (or alpine) mixed climbing?

I'm looking at updating my axes for this season and after 5 years with a pair of DMM Switches I'd be tempted to buy them again but I think I'd rather have something a bit lighter this time round and better for climbing ice as well. Slightly concerned with the durability issues of previous Nomic models and potential for the spike to break but there's ways round that part. I vowed not to buy Petzl tools again after my last pair wobbling but I can get a good deal on a pair this time round.

I've read a few reviews but most of them seem to be focused on pure ice climbing rather than mixed. 

 mmmhumous 22 Oct 2022
In reply to Nathan Adam:

My partner have a pair of current and previous generation nomics for both Ice and dry-tooling. We both use kuznia szpeju Picks for plastic and rock, but the standard petzl ice picks and adze for ice and Scottish winter (with kuznia hammers).   No durability issues with either generation, and will happily crank hard on a stein using either. When I bought mine (last gen), it was a toss up between nomics and Switches. At 115kg the DMMs definitely felt more sturdy, but I chose the nomics as they were much better on ice (swung and stuck much better). I prefer mine to my mates latest gen because they are easier to pirate and the spike on the new ones is neither use nor ornamen (he's replaced them the tooling pommels).  So in short they're great alrounders and fine on mixed.

1
 Exile 22 Oct 2022
In reply to Nathan Adam:

I have heard there are new DMM tools on the way, but probably not for this season. If this is correct I'm going to use my Switches for another season and see what they look like... 

 DaveHK 22 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

> I have heard there are new DMM tools on the way, but probably not for this season. If this is correct I'm going to use my Switches for another season and see what they look like... 

I'd love it if DMM came up trumps and produced something that climbs like a Nomic and lasts like a Switch, or at least closer to it. I don't think that's impossible. I had Switches and while there was nothing wrong with them they just weren't as nice to climb with as Nomics. But then Nomics are so flawed in other ways. Fingers crossed.

 GarethSL 22 Oct 2022
In reply to DaveHK:

If you want an indestructible nomic then the Kailas entheos exists. It's only flaws are the one size grip and the rare-as-rocking-horse-poop spare picks.

 Exile 22 Oct 2022
In reply to DaveHK:

That's what I'm hoping for. 

 climber34neil 22 Oct 2022
In reply to GarethSL:

Going along those lines plenty of other options as well   , trango raptor,  forecast nor ester,  ict makes loads of different options, can't remember the name of the nomic type now though, elite climb also are quality axes 

 ColdWill 23 Oct 2022
In reply to Nathan Adam:

Seeing as no one is whinging about the heads coming loose and the new version has been out since 2018, either they're good or no one has used them due to Covid.

 DaveHK 23 Oct 2022
In reply to ColdWill:

> Seeing as no one is whinging about the heads coming loose and the new version has been out since 2018, either they're good or no one has used them due to Covid.

And a crap winter.

 climber34neil 23 Oct 2022
In reply to ColdWill:

I've got ergonomics,  I assume the head is the same as the nomics and had no issues 

 mcawle 23 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

Oooh. Any details?

 Exile 23 Oct 2022
In reply to mcawle:

A well informed friend who works in the outdoor trade thought they were. And, I may be reading top much into it, but if you go onto the DMM website they do look like they are working through a revamp of their ice axe range. 

 ColdWill 23 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

the old light bender still looks the same to me.

 mcawle 23 Oct 2022
In reply to Exile:

Yes, I’ve seen the revamps of the walking and mountaineering axes. Interesting, will see what comes.


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