Angel Sar - K2 satellite peak - climbing history/routes?

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 mcawle 19 Sep 2022

Hi all,

Does anyone have any information about Angel Sar, which juts out from K2 to the SW? It sits between the SW pillar/'Magic Line' and the West Ridge. I can't find much information about its climbing history, route(s) etc.

I imagine it must see at least some traffic given its proximity to K2 base camp and lower altitude; I can see one Pakistani company appearing to offer guided climbs on it but not much in the way of detail.

It's not of any real importance - I just saw a picture of it and was curious to find out a bit more.

Couple of images for context:

https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/photo/mountain-8611m-royalty-free-imag...

http://www.pakpeaks.com/2017/06/15/k2-approaches-and-routes/

Any info/pointers welcome.

 Damo 22 Sep 2022
In reply to mcawle:

First climbed in August 1983 by a French-Swiss team, from the southwest.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198429601

Doubt it's had a second ascent.

OP mcawle 22 Sep 2022
In reply to Damo:

Awesome, thank you. Didn't know it also went by Angelus.

Why do you doubt it's had a second ascent? Obviously it's hardly as grand as many other objectives in the area, so I guess that's a factor.

 Damo 22 Sep 2022
In reply to mcawle:

It's rare that anyone attempts anything other than guided 8000m normal routes in the area anymore. Porter costs along with all the other guff make it quite an expensive destination for a small independent team trying something new.

A team of two attempted the west(sw) ridge on K2 a couple of years ago so they would have gone near it but I think they acclimatised on their route, not Angelus. It's too far for most K2 aspirants to go and try easily, even if they were interested, or able.

I'd say that since the Russian K2 west face climb in 2006 the only climbers to the area have been two teams of two doings recces for Praqpa Ri from the north side, but as is typical for the area, found negotiating the moraines and icefalls of the nearby glaciers to be slow, hard and dangerous work without support, on top of the usual weather issues.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213884

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216204

 Yanchik 23 Sep 2022
In reply to Damo:

That feels about right. I joined an Adventure Peaks trip to try a first ascent of Kangri Shar about 2005 - just E of K2, on the border, about 6500m IIRC. It was a great/slightly expensive way to do the K2 Base Camp Trek, but as far as mountaineering is concerned we got almost nothing done. Lost time in Islamabad, lost time on the walk-in (don't begrudge that, it's amazing mountain scenery) and then lost days to metres of snow. 

We walked almost to the foot of the route. After two guides disappeared simultaneously into crevasses, and we watched the whole approach swept by an avalanche off Broad Peak, we boldly retreated. Good trip, but not an easy place to be. 

 Damo 23 Sep 2022
In reply to Yanchik:

> That feels about right. I joined an Adventure Peaks trip to try a first ascent of Kangri Shar about 2005 -

You mean Kharut Ri?

 Yanchik 23 Sep 2022
In reply to Damo:

Central Kharut Peak. Not what I said above...

OP mcawle 24 Sep 2022
In reply to Damo:

Thanks Damo, that’s really interesting.

How do you keep tabs on these developments, out of curiosity? I guess keeping up with the main (English) alpine club journals (UK, US, NZ), given your citations of AAC here?

 Damo 24 Sep 2022
In reply to Damo:

In fact there was an attempt on Angelus, in 1998. Two of the British team (Jules Cartwright, Jamie Fisher, Paul Schweitzer, Nick Bullock) used it for acclimatisation before their attempt on Savoia Kangri.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199938503

 Damo 24 Sep 2022
In reply to mcawle:

> How do you keep tabs on these developments, out of curiosity? 

I don't get out much.

OP mcawle 24 Sep 2022
In reply to Damo:

Aye. No direct mention of the acclimatisation attempt in the link(?) but thank you for the tip.

Now to find a copy of High Mountain Sports 196...


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