G12 & Salewa Rapace

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 Andrew95 17 Dec 2021

I have just bought these boots and they are totally different to what I am used to (Mantas).  I have read that most people give them a B1.5 rating, but they do seem very flexible, especially compared to the Mantas. 

With a standard G12 with new classic bindings work okay? Or will I need to swap the bar out for a flex bar? 

 TobyA 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Andrew95:

Don't really know, but I've never heard on anyone snapping the bar on crampons using them with flexi boots. Perhaps it does happen but I've not seen it in about 30 years of trying to do things that involve crampons as much as I can.

What size feet are you? Gear Editor Dan and I have this discussion often when it comes to reviews - I think I could happily frontpoint in whatever B2 or 1.5 boots I'm reviewing. He says that's only because I have teeny-tiny elf feet (hobbit would be more accurate) - I wear 41.5 or 42s - whilst with his giant feet the boots would be floppy carpet slippers, and crampons would buckle under that massive turning forces involved! So foot size might make a difference.

I'd say try what you've got. After all, you are only climbing up a steep icy hillside studded with rocks. What's the worse that can happen? Ok, so maybe try it out on an easyish hill walk first and see how they feel. 

scotthldr 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Andrew95:

It puzzles me how often I see B1.5 boots mentioned as there’s no such thing. If they aren’t stiff enough to be rated as a B2, then they’re a B1. I’ve heard of crampons over stressing due to the flex in the boot, but never seen it myself, I suppose it comes down to how hard the crampon is being put through its paces. My biggest concern would be the flex in the boot causing the crampon to slip and eventually dislodging itself from boot.

However the G12 with New Classic binding is a C1 rated crampon so you should be fine.

Edit: I’ve just read a few descriptions of the Salewa Rapace, and they’re coming up as a summer mountaineering boot with limited crampon capability.  I don’t think I would be using them anywhere where I needed a 12 point crampon.

Post edited at 17:31
 TobyA 17 Dec 2021
In reply to scotthldr:

I don't think there is any actual way of saying what is "B1" and "B2", it's just a rough guide. So why not "B1.5"?

I know firms try to avoid it as much as possible but even with carbon fibre shanks in them and stuff, it still seems that bigger sizes of a model bend more than smaller versions of the same boot. So I might be happy frontpointing steepish ice in size 42 boots of X model, but if you are size 46 and weigh 30 kgs more than me, X model might be crap for frontpointing for you.

 PJ2398 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Andrew95:

I use size 46 Rapace’s with G12 NM and a flex bar, but haven’t used them with the new classic. Never had any issues with them on easy ground and have used them on alpine AD routes and up to G3 winter over here. I certainly wouldn’t want to be front pointing for long sections of hard ice but for gullies and short ice steps I’ve found them to be fine. They aren’t warm though (or particularly waterproof) if standing around in snow on a belay.

 beardy mike 17 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Tell editor Dan this is tripe. I've used b2 scarps triolets for 15 years now in size 47 on everything up to wi4+, and seconded V,7 in them... B3s seem excessive for most uses other than they tend to be better insulated and that is what I miss... warm feet.

Post edited at 20:55
 TobyA 17 Dec 2021
In reply to beardy mike:

> Tell editor Dan this is tripe.

He's currently bivvying above a cloud sea in the northern Highland from what I can see on social media, not that I'm jealous or something.... But the nights are very long at the mo that far north, so if he's bored and sees this he might be able to defend his position from inside his hooped bivvy bag!


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