UKH

Hello there, 

I‘ve been climbing for more than 10 years now. I redpoint 7a, max 7b, and aid A4+/A5.

I‘ve been to Yosemite several times, did NIAD, Salathe in a day, and Half Dome (Direct) in a day.

I however lack, honestly, alpine experience. So my recently most frequent climbing partner and I started to make plans for coming winter: we both would like to gain some alpine experience. 

After weeks of discussion, we finally agreed on the Schmid route on the N Face of the Matterhorn. 

Now I am here on UKC to ask you guys for some help and information. What is your advice? What should my mate and I know beforehand?

Thank you so much in advance! CM

Take an extra jumper youth.

😂

Don't forget your alpenstock and hobnail boots :P 

Oh hai

Have you got some of those Hand warmers that are like a little white bag that you shake? They're great for North Faces 😀 

You may aswell be able to redpoint 8c it won't make much of a difference on the schmid route. What's your winter or mixed alpine experinece?

 the best months for the schmid are usually march and April (Feb through to may) and it's often quite a bit easier if you're following tracks from another team on the route

Fill your tank up now. Filling stations are crazy this morning 

Good reply. The OP was not, sadly, even a good attempt at "humour" or whatever it was 

3 giveaways were "aid A4+/A5", "honestly", and "after weeks of discussion"

Hello, 

thanks for your answer. Much appreciated...

My partner and me actually planned Schmid for next February (first half of February).

Schmid would be one of my first serious alpine climbs. I never did much alpine... 

My partner, too, is rather a rock climber. We plan to do the Schmid in 10 hours, which should be the time most climbers need.

We, furthermore, plan to pitch only the middle part. The first and last parts, we plan to do unroped, simultaneously...

Not bad. 3/10.

In my mind's eye, why do you have a German accent?

"make plans for coming winter". Sounds Russian to me, although a Russian would say "make plan". We could just call it a "Eurovision" attempt.

1, You'd be better off on the Eiger. Some bolts on it at least.

2, the Matterhorn was built as a tribute to a Swiss chocolate you find mostly in airports. 

German mother...

I went to the base of the N Face once, looked up and walked away. The next group of seven medium-experienced alpinists were helicoptered off two days later, dead.

Have fun!

"We plan to do the Schmid in 10 hours, which should be the time most climbers need."

You won't be looking  for a  'Matterhorn guide' then? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Don't think so. It sounds like he couldn't find his tallywacker with a ten man search party!

DJ Viper? Is that you?

Nice objective. Let us know how you get on.

Probably best if he sends a post dated postcard.

Have you not heard the venerable words "do nothing in haste", which are particularly poignant in the context of the Matterhorn?

Maybe try a 1:20 scale model first?

https://www.discoveringbritain.org/content/discoveringbritain/viewpoint%20p...

Maybe you‘re right... We at least won‘t enter the wall if the feeling is not right... Few months left to discuss and plan things, yet...

Looks good, but certainly is easier to climb than Schmid route, I suppose...

This really isnt a good choice as a first route. generally it's best advised to have 'experience' first before you attempt such a committing line.

The Schmid is NOT a modern route. Its high mountain, often multi-day, enormously dependent on conditions (and you'll need to be able to judge that), with some tricky route finding, and with often very broken and poorly protected ground in the last third, especially if you get lost. Then there is the decent, the Hornli. When I did it in winter it took almost the whole day for the decent because of the amount of snow..

In contrast, there are 100s of modern routes that offer reasonable access and descent, good protection, and climbing as demanding as you wish. These are were you should gain your experience..

John C

You're going to need a good map. Weight will be a concern so I'd get something small and compact with all the details you're going to need. The packing of a Toblerone is the usual map of choice as you not only get a map but also the food you will need for the climb. Multi use kit.

A4+/5 sounds terrifying. Which routes, out of interest?

I’m 95% convinced you’re trolling but there’s a small chance you’re just completely deluded about what climbing a big alpine mixed NF involves (particularly the Schmidt). So, on the off chance you’re serious - forget about it. 

Never underestimate Roseberry Topping. Many a lass has been widowed and bairns left fatherless by the Toppingwand.

Is that what they mean by "topping out"?

Jolly Roger, it was…

I personally found the Schmid easier than the face of Roseberry Topping. Yes, the Schmid is longer and there's more ice on it, but the climbing up the main face of Roseberry Topping is a lot more technical. I'd suggest trying the Schmid first, see how you go on that and then if that goes well, have a look at the Roseberry face. There's nothing wrong with putting a top rope on either route if you get there and think it looks intimidating.  Better safe than sorry. 

It's a very bad idea to consider climbing a big north face as your first alpine route.  It's an even worse idea to consider doing it in winter, some might even say suicidal. Your sport climbing abilities will be of no help whatsoever in this environment. A competent VS leader with alpine experience would have a much better chance.

On a more serious note and being realistic looking up the face will hopefully put you off what is frankly a silly, dangerous idea.

Al

Conquering Mt Snowdon would be an ideal warm-up. 

Thank you for your comment... In fact, it won‘t be my really FIRST alpine route, but one of my first serious alpine routes.

My partner and me are still discussing. People here on UKC clearly seem unhappy or worried about Schmid route for us... Still few months to think about it... Let‘s see what next winter brings... 

The guy I finished the 1938 route on the Eiger did it as his first alpine route, or actually his second as he did the Mitelleggi Ridge a few days before to check out the descent down the west face. 

He was very good mind. But I don't think he bothered telling everybody his intentions beforehand though. Best just go and do it. 

You don't even need to tell anyone after you've done it either! 

Yes, I know what you mean... By writing here on UKC, I actually just wanted to get some information on the Schmid - it‘s always better to have some route beta beforehand...

The phrasing of this makes it sounds like he wasn't the same guy you started the 1938 route with...?

As you seem to be serious - the Schmid is notorious for crap conditions, crap gear and tricky route finding, plus a long and complicated descent. I think in reality there are 5 possibilities.

1. You won’t go at all.

2. You will go but won’t get on the face due to poor weather.

3. You will go but won’t get on the face because it’s big and scary. I’ve skied under it on the Cham Zermatt - it’s huge.

4. You will go, get some way up the face and come back down in a helicopter, alive.

5. You will go, get some way up the face and come back down in a helicopter, dead.

Get some solid summer alpine experience before trying some shorter, less serious routes in winter / spring. Eventually you could consider the Schmid - you will know when the time is right. You will then wait years for the right conditions…

Well I see you’ve just finished the Peuterey with a different guy from the one you started it with 🤣🤣🤣 Chapeau! 

Is anyone really same person after an ascent of the Nordwand?

This makes me imagine a very niche remake of "invasion of the body snatchers", with alpine hut snoring gradually replaced by high pitched shrieks and offers of pot plants.

He left earlier. 

You'll never believe it, but the key was to not climb the Noire in B3s

WHAT?!?! I got up this morning and this thread IS STILL HERE?!?!?!

It will keep going until it seamlessly transforms into an RIP thread sometime in February. So get your likes and dislikes in now.

i would suggest rum doodle as a good trip to be ready for such an undertaking , although the schmid route is very fine it lacks serious altitude and if your a keen mountaineer you should set your goals a lot higher  

You’re getting soft in your old age…

Well, according to Dani Arnold its basically a hike if your a good climber, and takes less time than it takes me to do a single pitch route on peak limestone... so crack on!

https://www.climbing.com/news/dani-arnold-solos-petit-dru-completes-alps-si...

I think it might be a good plan first to access the summit by the ordinary route and descend it by ski to suss it out.