UKH

I’m staying in Hadfield this weekend looking to go climbing with my daughter who is 13 and a near beginner. She’s done a bit of indoor bouldering, and recently two days of outdoor climbing on top rope (Hay Tor and Great Staple Tor on Dartmoor).

I’ve never climbed myself on the west side of the Peak and am looking for good crags with a (possibly ridiculously) specific list of requirements:

• Less than an hour drive from Hadfield (where we’re staying)
• Good range of quality single pitch routes in the Diff to Severe range
• Easy to set up bomber top rope anchors for belaying from the bottom of the crag on such routes
• A crag where this can be done without too much getting in the way of or annoying other climbers – a larger or less crowded crag I guess
• Not likely to be crowded with instructors with groups either
• Ideally, not just micro routes - some stuff in the longer range of 12-20m (Hay Tor was so perfect for this!)
• Weathered natural gritstone rather than loose quarried stuff

I am not a very experienced climber myself - whilst I can certainly rig something safe & wouldn’t let her climb on anything that isn’t completely solid and with lots of redundancy in the system, I found in Devon it did take me a fair bit of faffing to set up and equalise an anchor and to feel confident it was bomber. This means that crags with lovely solid trees and boulders that can shorten this faffing time and allow for more climbing would be ideal.

For rigging I have a few slings (though only one long 2m40 one), 1 set of wires, 1 set of torque nuts, a 14m static rope, & enough screwgates. But no cams.

Castle Naze and Windgather seem to tick most boxes, but I’ve also seen comments that they are notoriously hard to set up belays on. Is this the case? What about the Roaches (if so, Upper, Lower or Skyline?) Ramshaw Rocks?

What I'm about to say might seem stupid at first so bear with me.

Do you mean top roping of bottom roping?

Because if you go to Windgather the routes would suit but the anchors can be a faff to set, however if you are top roping i.e belayer at top of cliff then you might feel better about it as: firstly if she falls the chances are you will absorb it and not even load the anchors (I know this is very much not the done thing to say but we all know it) and secondly it is much easier to keep an eye on the anchors to keep your fears in check (once again shouldn't matter but...).

Yes, sorry - I mean bottom-roping as the preference. This is because her confidence is at a level where me seeing her on the route and being able to make suggestions is helpful; I'd also want to check her tying in knot before setting off; and also because I like climbing myself and it'll be easier for her to belay me

I can also belay from the top, but would only want to do that when she is more confident, so being able to set up a completely bombproof instructor-style anchor is what I'm after. It tends to be harder to find such spots than normal belay points from the top (and this limited our choice of routes in Devon), hence my question really.

Good to know that about Windgather thanks!

U will be able to build the anchors you want a Windgather, the 14m static will come in handy. You just might need to pick and choose.

Windgather is the obvious choice. 

Loads and loads of easy routes (most stuff there is massively overgraded and I'm usually happy to take beginners up anything upto about HS). Most routes go more or less straight up and belays are usually fairly easy to set up...there are even a couple of pegs.

I had the neighbours kids there a couple of weeks ago and they loved it.....hell, my son led his first route there!

EDIT: as others have said, you may find a rigging rope useful, but I've never had any trouble setting up 3 point bomber anchors that I was totally happy belaying from the bottom on.

Thanks Chris!

Looks like Windgather might be first choice, but would be grateful for any other tips too.

At Windgather you just have to use your eyes a bit to see the best belays and do some equalisation but most routes should be ok.

The rock strata there slopes downwards & backwards so most of the holds are going the right way (rather than being horrible slopers), especially the top edge of the crag 😁 - great for inspiring confidence.

Can get a bit crowded but there's always some worthwhile routes free.

There are a couple of old bolt stubs over the top but there shouldn't be any pegs.

If you don't mind a half hour walk in, up quite a hill, then  Dovestones Edge is really nice. Make sure it's been dry for a day or two, and go in the afternoon/evening when it gets the sun and it's lovely. Achors for bottom roping aren't too hard to set up. I set up a bottom rope for Question Mark (S 4a) and Answer Crack (HVD) recently, one achor worked for both routes, I definitely needed to use the static though, but you should be fine with a 14m static and some rope protectors. Plenty of other low grade routes on the crag too. 

Thanks - positive holds are definitely a bonus, she doesnt like slopers... 

That looks like a good shout. I like the sound of several routes from the same anchor, and less likely to be crowded... We don't mind a walk-in

If you're based in Hadfield, someone needs to mention Hobson Moor Quarry, if only to warn you....
Pros:
It's just round the corner and a 30 second walk in
Easy to set up (it's all stakes)
Cons:
Definitely won't be enough at the grades you want to spend all day there
Dog crap and broken glass

Dovestones Edge is a belting crag. Good rock, quiet and lots to do at the easier grades. It is, in my opinion, more than half an hour walk!

From UKC logbook page. "this fine cliff has a good selection of routes and is rarely busy, the flog to get there being the main reason the place stays so quiet."

It is the antisthesis of Windgather which must fit the definition of roadside crag. At Windgather it can get busy but as the grades are very similar along the crag it is usually possible just to shift along to another buttress which may be free. A very friendly crag for bottom roping if you know what you're doing.

Cheers for the warning, will give that a swerve... 

No problem with a bit of hillwalking to get there. Dovestones looks great - the longer routes and lack of crowds swing it for me I think - weather permitting, it looks perfect. Thanks!

Windgather is popular for a reason - slabby, lots of horizontal breaks, good hand holds and feet.

There are anchor placements, you may need to just hunt around.

Awesome sunset too!!!

If the weather's just right in the evening, you can see bits of Snowdonia, can be difficult to work out what's what though.

I think you can make out Tryfan, but I may be remembering seeing it from Teggs Nose a few miles to the south.

Esoteric shout out for Robs Rocks if you heading to Chew Valley. Good situation, South facing,  some classy VDiffs, cant recall what belays are like but generally never a problem at Chew crags

Cheers for that - yes it looks like another tempting possibility.

Cheers to those who suggested Windgather, and Dovestones Edge: we managed late afternoon at Windgather after the drive up, and most of the day at Dovestones Edge on Saturday. Great weather, great climbing, great routes - ta!