Slate Shoes

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 Stoop324 19 Jun 2021

What’s peoples opinion on the best shoes for Slate Climbing? 

2
 Alex Riley 19 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

A brand new pair of La Sportiva Miuras is my favourite.

 petegunn 19 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

5.10 Blancos

 YourNameHere 19 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Saw "Slate Shoes" and though "those are going to be uncomfortable!" 😁

 Alkis 19 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

As mentioned by others, Blancos or a brand new pair of Miura Laces. Blancos in particular feel like cheating.

 Enty 19 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Asolo Runouts. Without a doubt.

I onsighted Heading The Shot in them in 1988.

E

4
 ianstevens 19 Jun 2021
In reply to Alkis:

Oooh no, got to be the Muira VS. Stiffer than…

OP Stoop324 20 Jun 2021
In reply to petegunn:

I tried the Blancos, they didn’t seem to do it for me….. maybe because they was the second batch they put out and not the originals version? 

OP Stoop324 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Alex Riley:

Il give the Miuras a go as you and a few others have recommended them. I was told that Scarpa Instincts are pretty good….. Ive always used Tenaya Oasi shoes. I just find that smearing on the slate with them is so good but i think I could do with abit more of a edge on the shoe and they don’t hurt your feet to much either. Thanks.

 dinodinosaur 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Brand new unparallel UP lace have a mean edge on them and are stiff as anything 

 Ben Farley 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Scarpa Instinct lace ups. Easily the best shoes that I've ever used on slate. Straight out of the box and then stay decent for longer than other shoes that I've worn over the years.

However, I've not worn most of the shoe types recommended by other posters.

 Bob Kemp 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Enty:

The first version of Runouts were the best shoes I’ve had. Then they brought out a new model… 

 Rick Graham 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Bob Kemp:

Asolo were begged not to discontinue the original .

History repeating itself, 5.10,EB, any others ?

 Bob Kemp 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Rick Graham:

You wonder what goes through shoe designers' heads. Don't they listen to customer feedback? I wonder if the age of sponsored climbers is improving things - it ought to in theory.

1
 CantClimbTom 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Bob Kemp:

> ...I wonder if the age of sponsored climbers is improving things - it ought to in theory.

Now the top climbers have to publicly agree (or at least keep quiet) when their sponsoring brand "improves" something

 pete3685 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

La Sportiva Megas. Felt like you had horses hoofs on your feet, yet you could stand on the edge of a razorblade all day. 

Sadly, no longer available

 MischaHY 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Miura VS without question. The main plus side being they also work when not brand new! 

 Alkis 21 Jun 2021
In reply to MischaHY and ianstevens:

The issue I find with the VS on slate is that I find the downturn makes them feel odd when on tiny edges on the outside edge. But yeah, they do work when old, unlike the lace version. Either way, that's why I've stocked up on Blancos.

 MischaHY 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Alkis:

I reckon the new ones from Unparallel could be worth a look if you prefer a flat shoe. Apparently it's very stiff and so good for edging: 

https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-rise-pro/ 

Haven't tried them yet though. Personally I have no issue using the inside/outside edges on the VS. 

1
 Alkis 21 Jun 2021
In reply to MischaHY:

> Haven't tried them yet though. Personally I have no issue using the inside/outside edges on the VS. 

Let's be honest, I'd probably get used to it, it's just with slate edges a huge part of standing on things is belief and any doubt is not great, so I've stuck with what I know!

 Iamgregp 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

I'm a fan of Miuras, but they are crap for smearing, you're better of with Katanas for that...

 Tigger 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Scarpa Boostic (old version maybe better?)

5.10 Blanco

Miura VS

Katan Lace (stiffer than Katana velcro)

 Tigger 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

Who smears on Slate?

4
In reply to Tigger:

> Who smears on Slate?

?? Surely a fairly common slate move is to smear on shiny rock with one foot while the other goes up to the next little edge?  I did all my hardest slate routes in 5.10 Huecos, which, I think, were their cheapo shoe. They were stiff laterally for standing on the edges and flexible lengthways for when you had to smear (correspondingly useless on pebbles though).

 Iamgregp 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Tigger:

The OP, whose post about smearing on slate I was replying to

In reply to Stoop324:

She sells slate shoes by the quarry door.

 petegunn 21 Jun 2021
 Gary Gibson 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:slate shoes are better than lead boots?

 Tigger 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Iamgregp:

To be clear I wasn't exactly being serious, I've smeared on slate dozens of times...with varying degrees of success!

To be honest my favourite Slate shoes are either a worn in pair of Miura VS or Boostics, they edge better (for me atleast) once the 'new' edge has been worn down, kinda like when the shoes have 50% of their life left.


By this point the shoes should have softened up enough to smear, but still edge really well without rolling off matchstick width holds.

OP Stoop324 22 Jun 2021
In reply to petegunn:

yeah I was actually chatting with him that day at bus stop. He was taking about bolting a new 7b or something. Heading the shot has to be one the best 7a+ On slate!

OP Stoop324 22 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Trying to find a balance between a stiff shoe for slate edges and soft rubber for smearing is impossible I think, it’s either one or the other. I’ve found  I smear alot on the slate and the edges on the Oasi’s seem to do quite well. But I’ve been trying some routes recently and I just think I could do with with abit of a better edge. The blancos I just found way to stiff and same with the pinks, I just didn’t get along with them. Thanks for the reply’s.

OP Stoop324 22 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like I will order a pair of Miuras.

 Tigger 22 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

Heading the shot has fine moves, though I haven't lead it yet but 'Welcome to the Machine' is one of the best I've done around that grade I think.

 Alkis 22 Jun 2021
In reply to Tigger:

Mmm, Welcome to the Machine sounds like one to add to the list!

In reply to Stoop324:

Nobody mentioned Solutions yet? I think they're the D's Bs. Great edge for edging and flexible enough for smearing. Done all my hardest slate routes in them

3
 CantClimbTom 23 Jun 2021
In reply to petegunn:

Wow, Johnny Dawes, the supreme master of cat-like balance. Interesting to see a pic of him using hands these days thought they made it too easy for him?

Post edited at 12:29
 Webster 23 Jun 2021
In reply to Stoop324:

fruit boots  


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