UKH

I noticed recently that my all-time favourite, the Five Ten Anazazi Blanco was out of stock... and shortly after that I saw some big (but short-lived) reductions on the full range: pinks, the VCR and VCR LV and the slippers.

Now, they've a new shoe with a new name that looks like a kind of amalgamation of the pink and blanco... And what looks to be the same slipper with a new name and a bit more rubber on the top...

Why all this rebranding nonsense, when they had such an instantly recognisable and well-loved range?

In reply to C Witter:

Agree -- the new look moccasyms are going to be rubbish. With the original model, you buy them tight and the leather upper stretches across the top of the foot to give a perfect fit. Now, with all that toe-hooking rubber, there's going to be very little stretch. 

I got some new dragons recently. They’re nothing like old dragons sadly.

I’m really liking the couple of pairs of Unparallel shoes that I have as replacements for my five ten stuff.

In reply to C Witter:

They’ve sold out 🙄 Five Ten as a company I mean, by selling to Adidas 

Have you seen some of the ‘approach shoes‘ they do now? They’ll be in JD sports soon

In reply to C Witter:

I stocked up on blancos when they were being flogged off cheap. Yet to find a better shoe for non-steep limestone.

For bouldering the Crawe, Aleon and probably Dragon VCS are superb steep bouldering shoes with little to differentiate between them. 

I hate the company but love (some of) the shoes.

In reply to Whoopdeedoo:

About a decade ago. Have you only just noticed?

In reply to TobyA:

No, but I’m still bitter about it

In reply to Whoopdeedoo:

I remember maybe 10 or so years ago when there were so many threads here about 5.10s falling apart and lots of anguish around if the company wouldn't or wouldn't fix them, replace them etc. I was told Adidas stopped dealing with the factory which was making climbing shoes because they felt the factory weren't willing to make changes that 5.10 wanted to improve quality control and so on. That manufacturer went on to become Unparalleled, there models are still 'paralleling' the older 5.10 models aren't they? So haven't we ended up in a situation where there's just other options available on top of the old models? Or are the Unparalleled models not close enough?

In reply to Whoopdeedoo:

Ditto, me too when the stopped making the Ascents velcro with a good heal pad, a great shoe.

But also went on to be pissed off with Mad Rock for stopping making their Frenzys comfortable shoes too!! Luckily I have three pairs which are taking a number of re-sloes quite well.

I bought some Jokers, and found them to be unpredictable.

In reply to Cobra_Head:

Well named then

In reply to C Witter:

I'm gutted that they no longer do the blanco, I know there were a bit like marmite to many but my feet fit them so well and no need for a down toe shoe they were that stiff.

I'm surprised that Unparallel haven't reproduced it, I tried on their new lace up but it's still not as stiff as the blanco 😭

In reply to Cobra_Head:

I have worn five ten shoes since my first pair of Velcro’s in 94. Loved those, the ascents, pinks, moccs, vmiles and loads of pairs of tennies. None of these shoes exist any longer and the replacements have always been worse. Good flat shoes are becoming rare. Have worn Scarpa Vapours for the last few years and even these have become worse in the latest iteration. I have a pair of unparallel velcros but haven’t got on brilliantly with them. 
 

james

In reply to TobyA:

When you find a shoe that seems to give you that extra edge, it's a real blow to lose it. You end up d!cking around for some time trying to find something that ticks all the boxes.

I was quite excited to try a pair of the Unparallel blue laces, but it seems although I downsized on the 5.10s I'll need to go down even further - 1.5 full uk sizes - to get a precise fit. So, I'm not even sure yet whether they stand a chance of being as pleasing. Also, they're not as stiff and the lace system seems a bit crap, whilst the heel seems less suited to heel hooking. Plus being expensive...

In reply to james mann:

It's such a shame, I could order a pair for Ascents or Frezys off the internet and go and climb in the the same day all day. I seem to spend ages trying to find something "new" to match my feet, which is why I've been getting my old pairs re-soled so much.

In reply to petegunn:

most likely ’cause universally it was newer a best seller.

In reply to HeMa:

I think the Whites were a bit cult. I loved them for non steep stuff and have a brand new pair still in a box, but I think you’re right that they didn’t have a mass appeal.

In reply to C Witter:

I've been a 5.10 fan for over 20 years. Loved the ability of them on thin grit slabs. 

They have lost the plot now

I've got some unparallel ups and they are the dogs nuts. Heel fits like a glove and they work brilliant on smears and edges 

In reply to C Witter:

I agree that the new "NIAD's" look pants.  They won't be getting me back as a customer anyhoo.

A few of my thoughts on the UP vs New factory 5.10 pinks having used both for 18 months or so:

I was a long time Anasazi user (since the late 90's I think), had the original pinks, blancos, and I even loved the newer pinks.  The last straw for me was in 2019 when they moved production to china, and the whole shoe changed.  The rubber got much worse (though it was still called C4), and the whole balance of the shoe changed, somehow the shoe managed to lose all of its precision and support, even when its sized tight.  It basically feels like a cheap beginners shoe (I thought it was just me, but I see that jezb1 has made the same point about the velcro Dragons in one of his videos).  I decided to cut my losses, use the pinks for the wall and mindless traverse laps and bought...

....UP laces.  I've had a pair since the summer of 2019.  I think they are the absolute bomb.  It's everything I liked about Anasazi's but with the quality upped a couple of notches

-Rubber - Oh my days!  It's the stickiest stuff I've ever used! and is still great for edging.  I once did laps of a long traverse alternating the pinks and the blues.  It was like night and day. I used the blues for a week in Font at the back end of 2019 and they were the business for everything from easy circuits to slab problems on grattons.

-Build quality - I always accepted that 5.10's were made out of tissue paper and kitten tears because they climbed so well.  The UP Blues are a whole different league in terms of quality.  Nice thick leather, plush linings, metal reinforced lace holes.  Mine have seen some action since I bought them (Font & Spain trips and general usage) and they're still holding shape really well.

-Comfort - Maybe it's just me, but that plush lining gives the shoe a real painted on feel.  

Perhaps I've just struck lucky with my first pair, but even if you offered me original Blancos I wouldn't go back now.

I wonder if UP will start making approach shoes any time soon..?

In reply to C Witter:

Unparallel Up Lace (the blue ones) are nice, very sticky rubber, very well made, but … no pointy nose which is for lime stone far from ideal.

Alternative for the "new" pinks is for me Tenaya Masai’s, perfect rubber, pointy nose, well made.

In reply to TXG:

I’ve been a fan of Anasazi Blancos for years though the quality deteriorated. The UnParallelUP Lace  look good and I’m thinking of buying a pair. How did you find the sizing compared with Anasazi?

In reply to Christheclimber:

Hi Chris, I'm the same size in UP laces as I was in (pre factory move) pinks. I read somewhere that the UP factory still uses the old anasazi lasts so there should be a close match.

Outside have done a "how to size unparallel" video which might be useful.

youtube.com/watch?v=bwXDIRbmoik&

Cheers 

Tom

In reply to TXG: I had heard there is an approach shoe coming this summer

In reply to Whoopdeedoo:

The best approach shoes I have ever had have been a pair of Adidas Terex shoes, substantially better than the tennies/ access/ daescent which I have had over the last 7 years.

In reply to TXG:

Cheers Tom, I’ve been wearing size 9.5 Blancos and have a pair of size 9 which have been in shoe stretchers forever. The video suggests sizing down quite substantially from shoe sizes so think I’ll have to go for a size nine, it’s a shame that all the shops are shut to try them on properly before buying. Hope the heel is a better fit than the Blancos which I found a bit baggy.

Chris

In reply to spenser:

I had 2 pairs of the Terrex Solos, best approach shoes I've ever used. Sadly, they're worn out now and Adidas have stopped making them. I replaced them with a pair of BD Technicians which are OK, but definitely not as sticky and don't quite climb as well.

I also love the Unparallel shoes and switched from 5.10 a year or so ago having worn them for at least 10 years, mainly due to poor build quality and frustration with them changing the fit/sizing.

The Regulus (I'm on my 3rd pair I think) is my go to shoe for sport, bouldering and trad. I also own the Sirius for things requiring a little more sensitivity. They're both better versions of the original Hiangle and original Dragon respectively, in my opinion. Great build quality and quality rubber, which was my main reservation when I decided to stop using 5.10! The service from Dark Ventures is also great when ordering direct. 

In reply to Christheclimber: Dark Ventures do free returns and exchanges on the Unparallel shoes which might help out while the shops are shut.

In reply to Christheclimber:

I was always a 10 in all different models of 5.10 shoes I used from pinks, velcro, mocasyms, mesa, blancos and tennies 

I got a 10 unparallel and the fit is perfect

In reply to patsaunders:

Cheers. I’ll check them out.

In reply to TXG:

Same thing with Anasazi VCS, i got a pair last year and they are horrible. The rubber doesnt feel like C4 at all. The sole is rounded near the edges so they dont edge well at all. They havent softened and still feel like clogs even though they arent particularly aggressive.

I tried the lace UPs and they were good but I felt they were between a verde and a blanco. Also felt the rubber was slightly thicker meaning they felt less sensitive. The lining as mentioned didnt, work for me, too warm and again made the shoe feel larger/heavier than the old verde/blancos.

I'm yet to fill the anasazi shaped hole in my heart.

In reply to Christheclimber:

I think 1.5 sizes down from ordinary shoe size for a very good fit; 1 size down for a relaxed fit. Post-Addidas take over, 9.5 in whites = 8.5 in UPs.

In reply to Hamfunk:

In case of danger, I would like to bring to your attention the Tenaya Masias (yellow)

Fit is as the former 5.10 Pinks. The sole is not as plump as the Lace Up, more sensitive I would say. I have no shares or any interest in either firm. I climb to 6c with it. After that, I prefer a more downturned shoe.

In reply to RR:

There's a simplistic beauty to it, memories of simpler (days) shoes.

Might try and pick up a pair soon, cheers!

In reply to spenser:

l'll second this, climbed E1 in a pair on the slate 

In reply to Hamfunk:

I find the UP Regulus feels clumpy and lacks sensitivity at first, but after a week or 2 they soften and are much more sensitive whilst maintaining their stiffness. The 3 pairs I've had have definitely reached a noticeable sweet spot, but do need that break in period. 

It might be worth persevering for a little longer with the UP Laces.

In reply to Mike Nolan:

I wore the Lace UPs through, to be more accurate, they had a good edge initially but lacked sensitivity and by the time they had softened they had lost their edge. It was a good shoe but it didnt have that broken in period of being an amazing shoe like I feel my anasazis used to.

In reply to Hamfunk:

That’s a shame, but useful to know, thanks!

In reply to C Witter:

Looks like the Anasazi VCS has also been replaced by the NIAD VCS

https://www.adidas.co.uk/five-ten-niad-vcs-climbing-shoes/FW2849.html

I actually quite like the look of them, means nothing if they don't perform however...