The Perils of Outdoor/Trad Climbing Grades

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 coolbert 26 Jan 2021

The Perils of Outdoor/Trad Climbing Grades.

Mod. Climbed in the rain as a child with one keen parent and one accommodating parent. You bond with the latter.

Diff. Climbed with keen parent only. You suspect they find it harder than they let on.

VDiff. Climbed solo as a keen youth, with near disasterous results. You don't notice.

HVD. You skip this grade in favour of a much touted Severe at your local roadside crag.

Severe. Your first mid-route traverse onto safer ground.

Very Severe. You wonder what the fuss was about, despite placing 900% more gear than the first ascensionist.

Hard Very Severe. You give up climbing 5 times in one route. Ascent time, 11 minutes per meter.

Extreme 1 (E one). Three years and roughly £850 at a climbing wall pays off....

E2. Ahh the difference between dolerite quarries and Glencoe. Perhaps this grading system needs 'r's and 'x's...

E3. Your first fall onto insitu gear. (respect the rock, love that one peg in particular)

E4. Not as cool as an E5 but equally dangerous, you rightly avoid. A grade for people who both own, and can justify owning, softshell trousers.

E5. You are aware you could climb this grade once and then happily retire to a long lifetime of boasting. Place a runner off route and never, ever mention it to anyone.

E6. Hmm, unlikely. Only if there's a certain someone at the crag you'd really like to impress, the sun's out, you're on holiday and the belayer is a junior doctor.

E7. Ok, so you've read "..and one for the crow", but landing on slate from 20m up will still pinch. If only you could take your brain out and stick it down your forearms.

E8. Never let footage of a sponsored athlete fool you into trying something instead of buying something.

E9. I mean, we'd all like to. If the world was ending, would you have time to drive to Wales?

E10. Surprisingly, if you can boulder 8m of 7c+, you're golden.

E11. Dave Mac (yes i've met him)

E12. James Pearson. (no i shan't)

1
 Niall_H 26 Jan 2021
In reply to coolbert:

> the sun's out, you're on holiday and the belayer is a junior doctor.

A lucky combination!

 tlouth7 26 Jan 2021
In reply to coolbert:

Mod. Those big steps on the path up to the crag.

Diff. Not so easy when you're downclimbing and a coil gets hooked round your foot is it?

V. Diff. Many happy years of bumbling after we first bought a rope and some nuts.

HVD. First time we actually climbed in close proximity to a genuinely hard looking piece of rock.

Severe. Finally none of this "Diff" nonsense!

HS. A few more years of bumbling after buying our first cams.

VS. Making some serious progress now!

HVS. That will do, thank you very much.

E1. Maybe one day if I ever have the motivation. Totally. Any year now.

E2 to E?? How high do they even go?

 Michael Hood 26 Jan 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

E1. Route was HVS in previous guidebook

E2. Route was HVS 2 guidebooks ago

etc.

 C Witter 27 Jan 2021
In reply to coolbert:

Mod: A route to accidentally kill your aging father on, during a rainy December trip to N. Wales.
Diff: The route that made your girlfriend cry in front of all those people, after you called it "easy", during a rainy August trip to N. Wales. One of the onlookers tutted.
VDiff: The long mountain route you thought would be fun, until you and three friends got stuck behind two guys in their mid-40s from the south of England, who seemed determined to lever out huge blocks above your heads. Then it rained, torrentially, and you almost missed last orders. Was that an April trip to N. Wales?

Need I go on?

Post edited at 08:49
In reply to coolbert:

E0. You'll recognise it when you do it.

 HeMa 27 Jan 2021
In reply to coolbert:

S, standard Norwegian access path to the crag. Done in flip-flips, crocks or sneakers and all the gear in the rucksack by the locals... toddlers also crawl their way up this on their own. Foreigners/tourist will spend 2h on this (topo time 10 mins) pitching, if they have not already bailed.

Reference video (not from Norway... but relevant anyway).
youtube.com/watch?v=RyrTsBkoPy4&
The short intro clip portion

 C Witter 27 Jan 2021
In reply to Byronius Maximus:

Yes, 3-Pebble Slab is fairly distinctive.


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...