UKH

Hello all,

I have recently got more and more into walking and scrambling around snowdonia, more recently the peaks and have gained an interest in Scottish winter climbing seeing as I am off to university hopefully this coming year. I am on the search for some boots that will take crampons but am largely confused with the B2/B3 classification and which suits me best. I have tried a few pairs on and know that the pair that fits best are the pair that'll be best for me but there are still differences between the two, such as toe lips and stiffness.

Would I be best going for the heavier duty B3 Nepal style or the lighter Charmoz style boot (The two best fitting pairs i've tried on)? I am worried if I get into the B2 side of things ill be regretting it in a few years and wish I went straight to the B3 to do everything from the get go. I have a pair of B0 boots which will happily do for 3 seasons but wont handle any deep snow or crampons. I also have all of my dads old gear including some camp 12 point crampons that require a front lip. Old, yes I know but its what ive got for the minute! I can keep these with B3 boots but would need to find a new pair compatible with B2 boots that require no clip and so need to factor that into the cost too.

Since I am a student I wont have much money and would prefer to buy once and cry once, and if that means taking a slight penalty for weight and durability I think I am happy to head in that direction under the guise that they will last. If anybody else has been in a similar position I would really appreciate your thoughts on the matter.

Thanks

B2s are fine for up to around Scottish V. I'd imagine most people go though at least one pair of boots in the time between beginner and grade V. If you have aspirations of ice climbing holidays then you may want b3s but if it's just for Britain then b2 will be fine. B3s are generally heavier and stiffer, so will be less comfortable on big hill days than b2s would be. 

If you are looking to be cheap then grab a pair of secondhand mantas for under £100 until you have a better idea of what you want. 

How big are your feet? People with small feet can get away with far more technical climbing in a B2 than people with big feet, if you have large feet there will be a fair bit of flex in a B2 boot and B3 could be the way to go.

looking at your profile, I'd second what paul has said.

B2 are generally more comfy to walk in and will be fine for lower grade routes. I think Nepals and Charmoz are very different boots (i've had both, had to sell on the Nepals because of fit but the Charmoz are a brilliant scrambling boot but i dont really use them for winter- not warm enough for me)

2nd hand is a great way to save money if they fit and they are in good nick., and you can get 2nd hand cramps (good old designs are heavier but very functional,  DON'T BUY CHINESE IMITATION)  When you climb harder and want lighter you'll be better informed.  

Mind you, might not be happening this season !

Thank you, I think B2 may be the best choice too but I also read a bunch of "if the B3 fits you best then use that for everything" and I am slightly concerned about durability of the lighter boot. It would probably just be Britain yes so It sounds like B2 may be the one to shoot for.

Dont need to be "cheap", just conscious and making sure im getting the best for the bucks - If its worth the upgrade in spend then i am happy to do so!

Eu 42/ UK 8

Ah my profile hasnt been updated for a long time! Over a year now I think.

Yes they felt very different, both good, but as you say the Charmoz werent warm enough for winter, which is kind of the point of them for me haha. I have read that sentiment a lot on forums and also about their durability compared to other boots seemed questionable too. A good scrambling boot but they need to be able to keep me warm and handle all the snowy rubbish.

I tried on the manta which are supposedly a similar model to the Charmoz but they didnt feel as good a fit so I kind of dismissed them. I might have to go back and try them again but half a size smaller.
Theres a pair of Mantas my size on the forums at the minute but the fit on the Charmoz and Nepals just felt so much better so even though its a good price I dont think it would be the smart move for me... Semi want to chance it though 

Heavier b3s does not always mean more robust. There have been far more issues with durability of sportiva b3s than scarpa mantas for example.

It comes down to foot shape and fit also. Sportiva tend to fit more slender feet and scarpas have a wider toe box. You have a bit more leeway than rock climbing shoes which you can make up for with socks but it is still an important factor. 

I've known people climbing lower grade routes in Nepal extremes because they fit better. 

I don't think you can have a better investment than a pair of scarpa mantas and grivel g12s.

Charmoz and Manta are built on different lasts so the fit will be different. have a look at scarpas website for details.  THey hae changd a bot over the years as well.

Mind you 300 quid aint cheap, 2nd hand boots are often sold not due to wear but poor fit...if you bought a 2nd hand pair of boots you could sell them on (like i did with my nepals) - went back to scarpa for fit, without  a big hit, but it's your call.

re crampons - if you want to get one quality pair, something like Petzl Lynx is very versatile, dual and mono, cradle and clip, top notch product, adaptable to your boots. I have an unused pair as I changed my mind and have a few pairs rigged for different boots instead ( i should sell em)

Good luck

If you're interested in fast and light walks/ascents get B1/B2's. If you anticipate yourself sitting around at wintery belays for long periods of time get something more insulated.

When I'm moving fast or plodding through snow in the UK, generally I'm running pretty hot. Charmoz or even Ribelle Lites will be plenty warm enough when paired with a warm double sock. The weight saving is incredible, if you ever hold a pair of Ribelles they weigh practically nothing. 

I wouldn't buy a heavy boot unless I was heading on an expedition/camping or anticipating my core temperature getting really low, which shouldn't really happen unless you're pitching on ice/mixed.