UKH

I had a slightly farcical attempt at using my new-ish BetaStick yesterday to take a quickdraw off the first bolt on a route that turned out to be too wet and slimey to climb. I thought I remembered how to do it, but actually checked on my phone and re-watched the little video of Charlie Woodburn showing us how to do it - last video on this page: https://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/products/sport while we stood at the bottom of the cliff.

The end result of my attempt was not only having a quickdraw stuck on the first bolt, but also now the spare krab AND my rope (jammed round the quickdraw, so couldn't just pull it down!

I actually found that just using the BetaStick's head I could push open the top gate of the QD and managed to nudge it up and off the bolt (thank you keylock clean gates!), so it all worked out in the end, but if you're not trying to remove a quickdraw hanging in space from overhanging rock (like in the video) I'd treat Beta Design's suggested technique with some scepticism. But then again, you might find like I did that there is more ways to skin a cat (or remove a quickdraw) with the BetaStick.

Beyond that, I love my clip stick. The BetaStick Evo is really cleverly and sturdily designed. Not sure why it took me so long to get one - perhaps I didn't value my ankles so much when younger!

My wife takes great pride in the fact she can do this with the betastick evo (so it is possible!) I've never managed it though, instead getting frustrated and going for the sketchy soloing to the first bolt option.

Yes, but it's desperate, especially with a kind rope!

I did a video on using the beta, and this section took a few takes...

youtube.com/watch?v=wqzzrBZiAv0&t=279

I do like my Beta, but the locking mechanisms are starting to lose their grip after a season's use.

Jez, have you tried Beta's method with a krab sort of hold the rope in place? I don't know if that makes it any more or less of a faff! In my case, well more - as I temporarily ended up losing the extra krab as well, and that was what jammed the rope in place!

Luke, my partner immediately volunteered for that option - it was him that actually was trying the route, but going back up (fortunately still on belay) he found what he had already found on his first attempt and immediately slipped off!

Yes but it's a proper faff. It's a last resort. 

Made myself a special device for getting draws back that kinda worked until it broke. I'll probably have a go at making mk2 over winter. 

Should add that beta customer service was  excellent when one of the plastic collars cracked on mine. Sent me a replacement part in the post. Deserves a 👍

Bit of finger tape around the gate clips works well.

Yes, and even managed it first go in front of an audience at Kilnsey last year the first time I tried it and was properly chuffed.

However, I've also got a Pongoose one which is infinitely easier to use for everything and especially removing quickdraws, so more recently tend to just use that.

IIRC on the last sport climbing course I ran I think it took me three goes to demonstrate removing a draw with the Evo compared to first go with the Pongoose. 

Yes, albeit it's a tad fiddly and works properly on overhanging terrain so that the QD hangs freely from the bolt. No biners etc needed, simply plate the loop at the bottom of the biner-slot and then close the gate opening wire on top of the loop.

But to be fair, I rarely do this, often it's just easier to clipstick yer way to the anchor and then lower (get lowered) and clean the line.

As mentioned by others, you can but its a major faff. In comparison the Pongoose works like a dream every time. 

Cost quite a bit more though! 

I've seen how it works in photos with the Pongoose, so it seems you still use a bight of rope. So I could imagine if the quickdraw is hanging flush to the wall, like in this case, it must still be a bit tricky to get the bight around it?

Not particularly, you just sort of nudge the draw sideways a bit with the rope loop and it tends to drop inside the loop quite easily  

Yes to the Pongoose, a well thought out and sturdy bit of kit. Always works well putting up up taking down draws.

Tried once, failed miserably! Promised myself I'd practice it but, you know...

Sounds familiar! You'll probably find yourself staring at your phone watching the youtube video at some point trying to remember how it's meant to work like we were on saturday!  

Yes, but really well made and very easy to use. My old beta stick is on its way out and will be replaced with a pongoose.

Was watching it as the rain fell ever harder before deciding I never actually liked the draw that much anyway! 

Ha ha! You probably made some penniless student climber very happy when he or she crag swagged your draw the next day.