Camping and climbing in Scotland?

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 Imedio 02 Sep 2020

Hello all. In light of the current situation a trip to Fontainebleau is now off the cards. With that said we are looking at spending a few days in Wales followed by few days in scotland. I know of plenty of good spots in Wales but I have never been to Scotland.
I am wondering if anyone can advise a good location in Scotland To go sport/bouldering and camping?

any advice would be brilliant
 

1
 Jonty Mills 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

The NW Highlands has both great sport climbing and bouldering..Torridon, Gairloch etc, and an incredible part of the world besides. 

2
 Alex1 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Jonty Mills:

It also has midges which can make camping utterly miserable - have a plan to manage this if going in midge season. 

Scotland has right to roam which allows camping in most reasonable locations although the locals are currently a bit upset by the volume of wild camping at honey pot areas.

 Offwidth 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Alex1:

There have been real problems with finding space in some campsites. Including one near Reiff where someone booked and drove for hours only to find on arrival they had been 'gazzumped' .

 Michael Gordon 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Offwidth:

Not to mention that many still aren't open to tents, e.g. Sligachan and Glen Brittle. I've never seen so much roadside camping on Skye, inevitably as a direct result.

 CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

Hi,

IMO the mid grade sport climbing in Scotland is quite scattered about and outside of quarries you do struggle to find anything on par what you can find in the West Country / Wales. It's not really worth driving for from England at that sort of grade. There is ofc a reasonable amount of bouldering, but most of it will be wet / midgey right now.

Bouldering wise there aren't that many extensive venues that an easy walk in and most of those aren't that close together, its not like the Peak or Northumberland etc. That coupled with wanting nearby sport climbing and low midgies really reduces your options. OFC trad climbing would open things up massively.

Stevo

Post edited at 17:56
4
 CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

In spring when there are less midgies Weem / Glen lednock area could work for you. Right now east coast tends to be drier and less midgie so maybe around Angus / Aberdean (see portlethen / Legaston / Arbroath / Luath Stone / Kirriemuir etc)

 IainL 02 Sep 2020
In reply to CurlyStevo:

NE has a lot more midges now as it has become more humid and wetter. Still not as bad as the west tho'.

 CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2020
In reply to IainL:

rarely a problem at arbroath or portlethen  IMO

OP Imedio 04 Sep 2020
In reply to All:

thank you all for your response It’s been very help full, after checking out arbroath We have decided to air bnb there for a few days and then go to the Lake District after. Big thanks

 EdS 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Offwidth:

> There have been real problems with finding space in some campsites. Including one near Reiff where someone booked and drove for hours only to find on arrival they had been 'gazzumped' .

we had no issues there a couple of weeks ago - plenty of room

 Offwidth 04 Sep 2020
In reply to EdS:

Good to hear things have calmed down.

 Michael Gordon 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

I hope you aren't too disappointed! Just a wee bit further up the coast, Elephant Rock is worth a visit when the tides are right.

 Michael Gordon 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Offwidth:

> Good to hear things have calmed down.

Or that they have reflected on their practices and decided to honour bookings...

 peppermill 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

Wherever you go, whatever you do make sure you are properly equipped for the west coast of Scotland.

By this I mean head nets and a Fck-ton of Smidge. 

Unless you get lucky with the wind no point trying to avoid them/moaning, best to just embrace the beekeeper look and get on with the trip! 

Post edited at 13:44
2
 CurlyStevo 06 Sep 2020
In reply to peppermill:

Midgies generally aren’t about until mid may and then get steadily worse. Late spring and early summer is the best time of year for west coast Scotland for avoiding midgies.

1
 peppermill 06 Sep 2020
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I live up here but thanks.

1
 planetmarshall 06 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

> any advice would be brilliant

A flamethrower.

 Smelly Fox 06 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

I’d probably base yourself near Inverness, then you are within an hour of some great venues, and can react to what the weather is doing. Pick crags and exposed boulders,  keeping a close eye on the wind direction. A frost will help mitigate the midge risk, but until then, a breeze is your friend. 
 

While no where near is convenient as N wales or the Lakes for concentration of climbing, you won’t regret heading up north. Good luck!

 BrendanO 07 Sep 2020
In reply to Imedio:

If you don’t already have it, the book 7a Max is great for Scottish Soort Climbs and only around £15, lots in the book near Arbroath!! 

Ahem, other guides and indeed apps available


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