UK crags suited to top rope self belay

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 street_alex 21 Jul 2020

I’ve been developing this skill during lockdown and now looking for crags further afield (Stone Farm is my local).

Looking for crag recommendations... So far I reckon Stanage and Burbage North, but beyond that I’m open to suggestions. 

Simple and straightforward belay set up, ideally avoiding rebelays. Sub E1. Looking for route volume rather than projecting.

Anyone have any good suggestions?

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 Tigger 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

Staden Quarry maybe, most of the eastern grit edges and Rivelin

 TobyA 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

I've had a shunt for years, decades actually but haven't really used it in years. But i bought 20 m of of a semi static rope recently and have been out a few times to shunt some routes. I've used it at Curbar and Baslow and have found places where I could climb two or three route from one anchor but it's not always super easy to organise and it's rarely as simple as trees or one massive boulder so you have to lug a rack around with you to build anchors. 

But but those cliffs are 10 minutes away from where I live. I'm not sure if I would drive from South East England to do the same. Wouldn't it be more fun and wouldn't you get more done if you just find someone to climb with for the day? 


1
 John2 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

There are lots of good options in Pembroke, with in situ stakes at the top of many climbs.

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 Andy Hemsted 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

I've been climbing in this style a lot this year, in your grade-range, and have had good volume on every outing. Occasionally I've had to abort when a team arrives at the bottom, but it hasn't been a real problem.

Symonds Yat: trees at the top, which is very close to the carpark. The Golden Fleece area is perfect. When I was there, four of us were top-roping! Good for mileage...

Wildcat: trees at the top, and the top pitches are often the best. Quite difficult to work out which route finishes where unless you know the crag.

Ippikins: tiny crag not far from Telford, similar to a bit of Symonds Yat. Very close to the road. Closest option to Birmingham!

Grit: easier to work out routes. Often I've been able to do two routes with only minor adjustments. Hen Cloud, Black Rocks, Laurencefield, Birchen Edge, Gardoms, Bamford, Froggatt as well as Stanage and Burbage North. Nice to have the chance to try some unprotected routes that I wouldn't dare to lead!

 Andy Hemsted 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

I'm sure that Dorset would give plenty of potential, if you don't mind abseiling down towards the sea. My advice to anyone considering this, or any top-roping: always carry prusiks, and know how to use them. Think out (and practise beforehand) the way that you'd be able to get back to the top if you ab down in the wrong place, and can't climb the rock, or if you can't climb the route. Tie a knot in the end of the rope!

I've had great climbing in this way at Verdon, and on the Portuguese coast way above the Atlantic. Next year perhaps?

 Toerag 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

Sennen.

OP street_alex 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

Thanks for the suggestions. Hadn’t thought of Wye Valley and had figured Pembroke might be a bit complex, so great to hear that suggested. 

Curbur is a good shout.

Dorset definitely on the list. Subliminal?

Post edited at 20:17
 profitofdoom 21 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

> Anyone have any good suggestions?

I have a good suggestion for one to avoid (in my opinion) - Avon. Done loads of self-stuff there over the years, including loads of Main Wall routes, and it can get a bit exciting with the rope flicking down stuff occasionally

 Andy Hemsted 22 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

Subluminal would probably be the most straight-forward, but there are other routes on Boulder Ruckle, Cattle Troughs, Guillemot Ledge etc.

One of my plans for 2020 was to have some very long days, trying to top-rope on as many sectors as possible, with walking in between. This coast was going to be the first challenge, with Mrs H doing some walking, then moving the car from Durlston carpark to Worth Matravers. I might still get it done this year, depending on accommodation.

OP street_alex 22 Jul 2020
In reply to Andy Hemsted:

Thanks. My mother in law use to live in Langston Matravers, was ideal. 

OP street_alex 22 Jul 2020
In reply to John2:

Any specific recommendations crag-wise in Pembroke?

 Nige M 22 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

> Any specific recommendations crag-wise in Pembroke?

Saddle Head Upper Tier

 John2 22 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

St Govan's has some good HVSs. A crag which has a lot of good sub-E1 routes but where you would have to arrange your own top anchors is Blockhouse Buttress.

 David Coley 23 Jul 2020
In reply to street_alex:

Chudleigh


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