ARTICLE: Mountain Literature Classics: Starlight and Storm

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Eiger 1989 day 4: Below the Quartz Crack

If you want to be carried away by the power of words and share the intoxicated joy of that man on that ledge with the snow down the back of his neck – well, the man is Gaston Rébuffat, and this is the book for you, says Ronald Turnbull.



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 Muto 03 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

> If you want to be carried away by the power of words and share the intoxicated joy of that man on that ledge with the snow down the back of his neck – well, the man is Gaston Rébuffat, and this is the book for you, says Ronald Turnbull.

> I have the original edition of Rébuffat's "Etoiles et Tempêtes" in French. A wonderful read!

 Sean Kelly 03 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

The very first climbing book I ever bought. The Eiger chapter is especially good reading!

 Doug 03 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I re-read this recently for the first time in many years after finding a copy in our local library, one of the great mountaineering classics

 GrahamD 03 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I'm going to have to dig out my copy now. 

 Rob Exile Ward 03 Jun 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

Gaston - when I started climbing it was fashionable in the UK  to make fun of him - Gasping Rubberface - but I'm still in awe, and his books still inspire. If you want to see another side of the man read David Roberts, True Summit. 

Climbing (not so) Trivia fact:  I *think* the first Brit to climb all 6 was Derby climber Robin Sedgewick (who was also the first climber to climb all the offshore routes in Hard Rock!)  

 Mick Ward 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> The very first climbing book I ever bought. The Eiger chapter is especially good reading!

If I remember correctly though (and I may not), his appreciation of Buhl leaves quite a bit to be desired. Buhl's final showdown with the Eiger must still rank as one of the most inspirational leads ever. Nine lives hanging in the balance. If he'd failed, I very much doubt whether any of the other eight would have succeeded.

The French accounts (another one by Guido Mangone (sp?)?) contrast markedly with the Austrian accounts (one of the Maag brothers and one by Buhl's partner - Jochler (sp?)?). Buhl himself not saying too much. I know which ones I believe!

The Maag brothers astonishment and gratitude towards Buhl refusing to leave them behind, sharing stuff with them, essentially saving their lives, says far more to me than anything that Rebuffat ever wrote. 

Such caveats aside, Starlight and Storm is overall a superb book.

Mick


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