In reply to Sean Kelly:
> The very first climbing book I ever bought. The Eiger chapter is especially good reading!
If I remember correctly though (and I may not), his appreciation of Buhl leaves quite a bit to be desired. Buhl's final showdown with the Eiger must still rank as one of the most inspirational leads ever. Nine lives hanging in the balance. If he'd failed, I very much doubt whether any of the other eight would have succeeded.
The French accounts (another one by Guido Mangone (sp?)?) contrast markedly with the Austrian accounts (one of the Maag brothers and one by Buhl's partner - Jochler (sp?)?). Buhl himself not saying too much. I know which ones I believe!
The Maag brothers astonishment and gratitude towards Buhl refusing to leave them behind, sharing stuff with them, essentially saving their lives, says far more to me than anything that Rebuffat ever wrote.
Such caveats aside, Starlight and Storm is overall a superb book.
Mick